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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [268]

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various gifts and sundries, and can help book taxi services around the area. It’s 2km north of Frank’s Place.

YOGA

Yoga naturally complements surfing – at the very least, if you haven’t been in the water for a while, the stretching can be the perfect antidote to sore paddling arms.

Casa Zen Offers three- to seven-day yoga retreats; the instructor here teaches a variety of styles, from Ashtanga to Vinyasa.

Horizon Yoga Hotel (2640-0524; www.horizon-yogahotel.com) Offers three classes daily, in a serene environment overlooking the ocean.

Milarepa Offers classes in Hatha yoga, Swasthya yoga and partner yoga for all levels of practice.


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Sleeping & Eating

The following places are listed in relation to the main intersection in Playa El Carmen, where Frank’s Place occupies the corner. For simplicity’s sake, though the nomenclature isn’t technically accurate, listings north of the intersection appear in the Santa Teresa section, and those around and south of the intersection are in the Mal País section.

SANTA TERESA

You’ll find all of the following places heading north into Santa Teresa – they’re ordered according to their distance from Frank’s Place.

Frank’s Place (2640-0096/155; www.franksplacecr.com; s US$55-75, d US$60-95; ) Coming into town from Cóbano, the first place you’ll see is this local landmark and historic surfer outpost, which has taken over the entire corner with lots of rooms and an internet cafe. Frank has grown up, and this is no longer the backpackers’ paradise it once was. Spacious, tiled cabinas are comfortable. The free-form pool, whirlpool and restaurant are great places to hang out and get the latest surf report.

Las Piedras (2640-0453; mains ₡1700-4000; lunch & dinner) This Argentine-run chicken shack proclaims ‘Our chicken is the sh%t.’ One bite and you’ll agree.

Trópico Latino Lodge (2640-0062; www.hoteltropicolatino.com; d US$120, bungalows US$160-180; ) Beautifully decorated with dark wood and deep, saturated colors, the roomy bungalows here are peppered around a tropical garden and along the beach, and feature air-con, king-sized beds, hammock-strung patios and hot-water bathroom (one bungalow also has a full kitchen). There’s a dreamy pool fringed with palms and heliconia, and a surfside restaurant (dishes ₡2100 to ₡4200) that specializes in Italian food.

Luz de Vida (2640-0568; www.luzdevida-resort.com; d US$75-85; ) The Light of Life is an apt name for this bright tropical refuge. All of the rooms and bungalows have air-con and bathroom, and the common areas have a pool and cozy palapa (shelter with a thatched, palm-leaf roof and open sides) bar.

Casa Zen (2640-0523; www.zencostarica.com; dm US$12, d without bathroom US$24-45, apt from US$55; ) This recommended Asian-inspired guesthouse is decked out in Zen art, celestial murals and enough happy Buddha sculptures to satisfy all your belly-rubbing needs. The owner, Kelly, is committed to helping guests ‘chill and recreate on their own time.’ She also runs an eclectic restaurant (mains ₡2000 to ₡4400) that has everything from veggie sandwiches and burgers to fresh sushi and Thai curries. Casa Zen also offers a variety of yoga retreats; check the website for current offerings.

Don Jon’s (2640-0700; grupodonjons@gmail.com; dm/d/apt from US$12/35/60; ) This friendly spot run by Colombian brothers Jon and Jeison offers several rustic teak bungalows and modern apartments plus dorm accommodations. The two-bedroom apartment has a full kitchen and is roomy enough for four. The onsite restaurant serves burritos, tacos and sandwiches.

Funky Monkey Lodge (2640-0272; www.funky-monkey-lodge.com; r/bungalows/ste/apt US$50/80/85/120; ) Up the hill from Tuanis, this funky lodge is situated at the top of a natural-rock hill, and has sweet, rustic-style bungalows built out of bamboo. Each one has an open-air shower, and the larger ones have a fully equipped kitchen. A popular bar-restaurant (sushi rolls ₡2200 to ₡4500) packs in the crowds with good international food and excellent sunsets.

Hostal Brunela (2640-0321;

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