Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [269]
Cuesta Arriba (2640-0607; www.santateresahostels.com; dm with bathroom US$13, d US$35, all incl breakfast; ) Up a hill across from one of Santa Teresa’s best surf breaks, this drop-dead gorgeous hostel is a gem – each bright, colorful room sleeps six and has a hot-water bathroom. There’s a big, beautiful kitchen area with a breezy wood-floored terrace upstairs with a TV and DVDs. It also has boards for rent, laundry service, free breakfast and secure parking. There are hammocks in the garden, lots of places to lounge, and the vibe is happy and relaxed. Friendly hosts Barbara and Martin are a wealth of local information and will make you feel at home. The bus from San José terminates 100m south of the hostel.
Milarepa (2640-0023; www.milarepahotel.com; bungalows from US$198; ) This is a self-proclaimed ‘small hotel of luxurious simplicity,’ with Asian-inspired bungalows made of bamboo and Indonesian teak. Each one is furnished with four-poster beds draped in voluminous mosquito nets, and comes complete with a shower open to the sky. The restaurant (mains ₡4400 to ₡6700) serves international cuisine that emphasizes the fresh local seafood. The owners can arrange tours and activities and offer several types of yoga classes.
Florblanca (2640-0232; www.florblanca.com; villas incl breakfast US$552-989; ) The most sumptuous hotel in Santa Teresa is truly in a class of its own – not surprisingly, it belongs to the group of Small Distinctive Hotels of Costa Rica. Ten romantic villas are scattered around three hectares of land next to a pristine white-sand beach. Each villa is lit by warm hues, with indoor-outdoor spaces such as open-air sunken bathtub and living area. Complimentary yoga and Pilates classes are offered, as are free use of bikes, surfboards and snorkeling equipment. Transfers to and from Tambor airport are included in the rates. Its Asian-fusion restaurant, Nectar (mains ₡5500 to ₡12,000), is open to the public and is highly recommended for its innovative dishes and unbelievably fresh sushi. Children under 13 are not allowed.
MAL PAÍS
Frank’s Place marks the spot – this is the main intersection, where shuttles will drop you off and pick you up. The following places are listed in order of their distance south of Frank’s Place.
Umi Sushi (2640-0968; sushi ₡1800-5000; noon-10pm) In the courtyard of the Centro Comercial Playa El Carmen, this sushi bar has a pleasant dining room and tables outside. If you’re lucky, it will have a surf movie projected on the outside wall while you savor your Mal País roll. Beer drinkers, beware: it only serves Japanese beers, at exorbitant prices.
The Place (2640-0101; www.theplacemalpais.com; d incl breakfast US$68-136, bungalows US$224; ) Cheaper rooms in this Swiss-run guesthouse are air-conditioned and have a hot-water bathroom, but it’s absolutely worth it to splurge on the more expensive bungalows – each one is creatively decorated according to a different theme (check the website for pictures). Rooms ring a small pool amid the somewhat random landscaping. The owners can arrange surfing lessons and tours, and the small restaurant serves Mediterranean-style seafood by candlelight in the evenings.
Malpaís Surf Camp & Resort (2640-0061; www.malpaissurfcamp.com; campsite per person US$13, cabinas/villas/casas US$40/107/130; ) Whether you’re looking for a breezy bunkhouse or a poolside villa, this ‘surfers’ lodge’ caters to travelers of all budget levels. However, regardless of how much you’re paying each night, you can wander the landscaped tropical grounds, swim in the lavish pool or grab a cold beer in