Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [270]
Soda Piedra Mar (2640-0069; mains ₡1800-8500; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This is one of the best local places to eat in Mal País, with generous portions of fresh seafood and, as the name suggests, a rocky location right by one of the most beautiful blue beaches on the entire peninsula. Make sure you bring your camera!
Blue Jay Lodge (2640-0089; www.bluejaylodgecostarica.com; d/tr/q incl breakfast US$80/100/115, extra person US$20; ) These charming stilt bungalows are built along a forest-covered hillside, each with its own hot-water bathroom and a huge, screened-in veranda with hammocks. The bamboo-and-wood bungalows sleep three, and though they’re a bit on the rustic side, the luxury is in their spaciousness and openness to the surroundings. The lodge is 200m from the beach.
Beija Flor (2640-1007; www.beijaflorresort.com; r US$96-135, ste/villas US$153/210; ) One of the loveliest new properties in Mal País, Beija Flor is a luxurious, Balinese-styled boutique hotel. The clean and spacious rooms are decorated in minimalist stone and wood interiors and have outdoor showers. Onsite amenities include a small pool, spa and a beautiful open-air yoga studio. It’s also home to one of the area’s best restaurants with a daily changing, French and Asian-influenced menu.
Mary’s Restaurant (2640-0153; mains ₡3000-7000; 5:30-10pm Thu-Tue) Hidden in a jungly garden on the south end of town, this charming restaurant is locally known for the scrumptious wood-fired pizzas, plus fish tacos, burritos, quesadillas and other yummies.
Star Mountain Eco Resort (2640-0101; www.starmountaineco.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$50/70/90, casitas US$130; ) This intimate and secluded lodge was built without cutting down a single tree, and today the grounds of the resort abound with wildlife. There are trails leading through the property that offer good bird-watching, and a viewpoint overlooks both sides of the peninsula. There are four hillside rooms, each simply and thoughtfully decorated in muted tropical colors. Only the casita (cottage) has air-con and wi-fi access. The resort is off the rough road (4WD only) between Mal País and Cabuya, alongside the Cabo Blanco reserve (follow the signs), 5.5km south of Frank’s Place. It’s closed in September and October.
Return to beginning of chapter
Drinking & Entertainment
Artemis Café (2640-0579; www.artemiscafe.com; mains ₡3600-4800; 7am-2am; ) Come for the free wi-fi, stay for the coffee. Located in Centro Comercial Playa El Carmen, Artemis has fantastic coffee (best iced mocha ever), smoothies and juices, plus salads, sandwiches and panini. After dark, Artemis transforms into a groovy lounge with DJs spinning cool tracks and occasional live music.
D&N Day & Night Beach Club (2640-0353; dayandnightbeachclub.com; 9am-2am; ) This beachfront, thatched-roof, two-level building is the hottest new place in town. By day, you’ll find volleyball, beach beds and bocas. At night it’s the biggest party on the beach with DJs, live music and occasional fire-dancing and belly-dancing shows. It’s on the beach, about 100m north of Frank’s Place.
Return to beginning of chapter
Getting There & Away
All buses begin and end at Ginger Café, 100m south of Cuesta Arriba hostel; you can flag the bus down anywhere along the road up to Frank’s Place, at which point buses turn left and head inland.
A new direct bus from Mal País to San José via the Paquera ferry departs at 6am and 2pm (₡6800, six hours). Local buses to Cóbano depart at 7am, 11:30am, 2pm and 6:30pm (₡800, 45 minutes).
A taxi to or from Cóbano costs approximately ₡12,000. Montezuma Expeditions (2642-0919; www.montezumaexpeditions.com; Centro Comercial Playa El Carmen) organizes shuttle-van transfers to San José, Tamarindo or Sámara (US$40), plus La Fortuna and Monteverde (US$45).
Return to beginning of chapter
Central Pacific Coast
* * *
PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS
PUNTARENAS
AROUND PUNTARENAS
TURU BA RI TROPICAL PARK & AROUND
PARQUE NACIONAL CARARA
TÁRCOLES & AROUND
PLAYA HERRADURA AREA
JACÓ
PLAYA HERMOSA
PLAYA