Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [271]
PARRITA
RAINMAKER AERIAL WALKWAY
QUEPOS & MANUEL ANTONIO
QUEPOS
QUEPOS TO MANUEL ANTONIO
MANUEL ANTONIO VILLAGE
PARQUE NACIONAL MANUEL ANTONIO
QUEPOS TO UVITA
RAFIKI SAFARI LODGE
MATAPALO
HACIENDA BARú NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
DOMINICAL
ESCALERAS
UVITA
PARQUE NACIONAL MARINO BALLENA
OJOCHAL AREA
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Stretching from the rough and ready port city of Puntarenas to the tiny town of Uvita on the shores of Bahía Drake, the central Pacific coast is home to both wet and dry tropical rainforests, sun-drenched sandy beaches and a healthy dose of rare wildlife. On shore, national parks protect endangered animals such as the squirrel monkey and the scarlet macaw, while offshore waters are home to migrating whales and pods of dolphins.
With so much biodiversity packed into a small geographic area, it’s no wonder the coastal area is often thought of as Costa Rica in miniature. Given its close proximity to San José and the Central Valley and highlands, and its well-developed system of paved roads, the region has traditionally served as a weekend getaway for everyone from sun-worshippers and sportfishers to tree-huggers and outdoors enthusiasts.
Centered on the boomtown of Jacó, and to an increasing extent Manuel Antonio and Dominical, urbanization is primed to transform the coastline. Foreign investment and expats alike have flooded in, catapulting the region into the ranks of Costa Rica’s wealthiest and most cosmopolitan regions. This socioeconomic shift has resulted in drastically improved infrastructure and job creation, though vocal critics in the local media are concerned about future sustainability.
While threats of unregulated growth and environmental damage are very real, it’s also important to see the bigger picture, namely the stunning nature that first put the central Pacific coast on the map. Although at times it can be hard to look beyond the towering construction cranes, spotting a troop of monkeys swinging through the canopy will quickly renew your faith in the natural beauty of Costa Rica.
HIGHLIGHTS
Watching troops of squirrel monkeys scamper along the beaches at Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio
Listening to squawking pairs of rare scarlet macaws flying overhead at Parque Nacional Carara
Surfing the breaks at Jacó, Playa Hermosa and Dominical
Spotting pods of breaching humpback whales at Parque Nacional Marino Ballena
Clambering up the canopy platforms at Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge
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History
Prior to the tourism boom in Costa Rica, the central Pacific coast – particularly the Quepos port area – was historically one of the country’s largest banana-producing regions. However, in response to the 1940 banana blight that affected most of Central America, the United Fruit Company (also known as Chiquita Banana) introduced African palms to the area. Native to West Africa, these palms are primarily cultivated for their large, reddish fruits, which are pressed to produce a variety of cooking oils.
Although the banana blight finally ended in the 1960s, the palm plantations were firmly entrenched and starting to turn a profit. Since palm oil is easily transported in tanker trucks, Quepos was able to close its shipping port in the 1970s, which freed up resources and allowed the city to invest more heavily in the palm oil industry. In 1995 the plantations were sold to Palma Tica, which continues to operate the plantations today. With the exception of commercial fishing and tourism, the palm oil plantations serve as the primary source of employment in the Quepos area.
In more recent years, this stretch of the Pacific has grown increasingly popular with the package-holiday crowd, as it’s quite easy – particularly for North Americans – to squeeze in a one-week retreat and be back to work on Monday. Unable to resist the draw of paradise, a good number of baby boomers nearing retirement have relocated to warmer climes.
This demographic shift has been facilitated by the Costa Rican government’s decades-old policy of offering tax