Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [272]
During the shelf life of this book, a sparkling new marina at Quepos will bring in a larger volume of tourists visiting Costa Rica on cruise ships, and several exclusive high-end gated communities will attract an even greater number of wealthy immigrants. Things are indeed changing quickly along this stretch of coastline, though it’s difficult to imagine that the authenticity of the coastal fishing villages, agricultural plantations and protected areas could ever be lost.
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Climate
West of the Cordillera Central, rains fall heavily between April and November. The hillsides are particularly lush and green during this time, while in summer (December to March) little rain falls, leaving the countryside dry and barren-looking.
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Parks & Reserves
The central Pacific coast is home to a number of parks and reserves, including the most visited national park in Costa Rica.
Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge A small reserve that encompasses a range of tropical habitats and is part of a major biological corridor that protects a wide range of species.
Parque Nacional Carara Home to no less than 400 different species of birds, including the rare scarlet macaw, which is amazingly a commonly sighted species in the park.
Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio The pristine beaches, rainforest-clad mountains and dense wildlife never fail to disappoint in Costa Rica’s most touristed national park.
Parque Nacional Marino Ballena A vitally important marine park, this is the country’s premier destination for both whale- and dolphin-watching.
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Getting There & Around
The best option for exploring the coast in depth is to have your own form of private transportation. With the exception of a few odd unpaved stretches of dirt, the central Pacific coast has some of the country’s best roads.
Major cities and towns along the coast, such as Puntarenas, Jacó, Quepos, Dominical and Uvita, are serviced by regular buses. Generally speaking, public transportation is frequent and efficient, and is certainly more affordable than renting a car.
Both NatureAir (www.natureair.com) and Sansa (www.flysansa.com) service Quepos, which is the base town for accessing Manuel Antonio. Prices vary according to season and availability, though you can expect to pay a little less than US$75 for a flight from San José or Liberia.
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PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS
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The northern reaches of the central Pacific coast extend from the maritime port of Puntarenas, a historic shipping hub that has fallen on harder times, to the booming town of Quepos, which is a gateway to Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. In between are vast swathes of forested hillsides and wilderness beaches, which together protect large concentrations of remarkable wildlife. However, the local spotlight is fixed firmly on the surf city of Jacó, which plays host to a colorful cast of characters.
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PUNTARENAS
Port cities the world over have a reputation for polluted waters, seedy environs and slow decay, which is pretty much a good way to sum up Costa Rica’s gateway to the Pacific. As the closest coastal town to San José, Puntarenas has long been a popular escape for landlocked Ticos, especially since it takes just a few hours to reach here from San José and surrounding environs. However, although the city council has done a commendable job in cleaning the beaches and renovating the boardwalk, it’s hard to escape the feeling that you’re sunning yourself in a container yard.
Despite serving as the main cruise-ship port along Costa Rica’s Pacific stretch, Puntarenas is struggling to reap the benefits of increased tourism, and has rather tragically