Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [27]
Guanacaste is also the birthplace of many traditional dances, most of which depict courtship rituals between country folk. The most famous dance – sometimes considered the national dance – is the punto guanacasteco (see boxed text). What keeps it lively is the bomba, a funny (and usually racy) rhymed verse, shouted out by the male dancers during the musical interlude.
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Food & Drink
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STAPLES & SPECIALTIES
DRINKS
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
VEGETARIANS & VEGANS
EATING WITH KIDS
HABITS & CUSTOMS
EAT YOUR WORDS
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All it takes is a quick glance at the menu to realize that Costa Rica is firmly rooted in the tropics. With everything from exotic fruits such as mangoes, guavas and lychees and the obligatory cup of shade-grown coffee, to fillets of locally raised fish and a zesty ceviche (uncooked but well-marinated seafood) featuring the catch of the day, Costa Rica is just as much a feast for the palate as it is for the eyes.
Of course, Costa Rica remains fiercely true to its Latin roots by featuring rice and beans prominently at most meals. Thatched country kitchens can be found all over Costa Rica, with local women ladling out basic but hearty home-cooked specials known as comida típica (literally ‘typical food’). And of course, Costa Ricans go wild for a good steak, which partially explains the abundance of cattle ranches throughout the country.
If you prefer your Tico (Costa Rican) fare a bit more upscale with a nouveau twist, try the country’s trendier tourist areas. These have seen a high level of immigration from Europe and the US, which assures a wide selection of just about anything you might want to munch on. Whether you’re partial to sushi or souvlaki, this little country can go miles to satiate your appetite.
Entradas: Journeys in Latin American Cuisine, by Joan Chatfield-Taylor, has some of Costa Rica’s most popular recipes – and many others.
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STAPLES & SPECIALTIES
If you’re looking for rich and fiery mole (rich chocolate sauce), or a perfectly crafted avocado soup, you’ve come to the wrong country. Sadly, the complex and varied dishes concocted in Mexico and Guatemala never made it south of the border. Traditional Costa Rican staples, for the most part, are very basic, somewhat bland and frequently described as comfort food. The diet consists largely of rice and beans – and beans and rice – though it’s fresh, hearty and honest fare.
Breakfast for Ticos is usually gallo pinto (literally ‘spotted rooster’), a stir-fry of rice and beans. When combined, the rice gets colored by the beans, and the mix obtains a specked appearance. Served with eggs, cheese or natilla (sour cream), gallo pinto is generally cheap, filling and sometimes can be downright tasty. If you plan to spend the whole day surfing or hiking, you’ll find that rice and beans is great energy food. If you are not keen on rice and beans, many hotels will provide what they refer to as a ‘tropical breakfast,’ which is usually bread along with a selection of fresh fruits. American-style breakfasts are also available in many eateries and are, needless to say, heavy on the fried foods and fatty meats.
Most restaurants offer a set meal at lunch and dinner called a casado, or a ‘married man’s’ lunch. This meal is always cheap, heavy on the stomach and well balanced with meat, beans, rice and salad. An extremely popular casado is the ubiquitous arroz con pollo, which is chicken and rice that is usually dressed up with grains, vegetables and a good mix of mild spices. Also look out for patacones, fried green plantains cut in thin pieces.
Costa Rican Typical Foods, by Carmen de Musmani and Lupita de Weiler, is out of print, but it is perhaps the only Tico-specific cookbook ever written.
Food is not heavily spiced, unless you’re having traditional Caribbean-style cuisine. The vast majority of Ticos have a distinct aversion to hot sauce, though most local restaurants will lay out a spicy curtido