Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [28]
Considering the extent of the coastline, it is no surprise that seafood is plentiful, and fish dishes are usually fresh and delicious. Fish is often fried, but may also be grilled or blackened. While it’s not traditional Tico fare, ceviche is on most menus, and usually contains octopus, tilapia, dorado and/or dolphin (the fish, not Flipper). Raw fish is marinated in lime juice with chilies, tomatoes and herbs. Served chilled, it is a delectable way to enjoy fresh seafood. Emphasis is on ‘fresh’ here – this is raw fish (think sushi), so if you have reason to believe it is not fresh, don’t risk eating it.
THE GALLO PINTO CONTROVERSY
No other dish in Costa Rica inspires Ticos quite like their national dish of gallo pinto, that ethereal medley of rice, beans and spices. Of course, exactly what type and amount of this holy trinity makes up authentic gallo pinto is the subject of intense debate, especially since it is also the national dish of neighboring Nicaragua.
Both countries claim that the dish originated on their soil. Costa Rican lore holds that the dish and its iconic name were coined in 1930 in the neighborhood of San Sebastián, which is on the southern outskirts of San José. Nicaraguans claim that it was brought to the Caribbean coast of their country by Afro-Latinos long before it graced the palate of any Costa Rican.
The battle for the rights to gallo pinto doesn’t stop here, especially since the two countries can’t even agree on the standard recipe. Nicaraguans traditionally prepare it with small red beans, while Costa Ricans swear by black beans. And we’re not even going to bore you with the subtle complexities of balancing cilantro, salt and pepper.
Much to the dismay of patriotic Costa Ricans, Nicaragua currently holds the world record for making the biggest ever pot of gallo pinto. On September 15, 2007, a seething vat of gallo pinto fed 22,200 people, which firmly entrenched Nicaragua’s name next to gallo pinto in the Guinness Book of World Records.
The most popular foreign food in Costa Rica (at least amongst the Ticos) is Chinese. Nearly every town has a Chinese place and even if it doesn’t, menus will likely include arroz cantonés (fried rice). Italian food is also extremely popular and pizza parlors and Italian restaurants of varying quality abound. The locally produced pizzas are sometimes heavily loaded cheese bombs.
If an establishment doesn’t exactly impress you with its cleanliness, then it might be advisable not to eat fruits, vegetables or salads there. If they are improperly washed, you could be sending your stomach a little bacteria surprise, though generally speaking water from the tap in Costa Rica is of sufficient quality to drink.
Return to beginning of chapter
DRINKS
Coffee is probably the most popular beverage in the country and wherever you go, someone is likely to offer you a cafecito. Traditionally, it is served strong and mixed with hot milk to taste, also known as café con leche. Most drinkers get café negro (black coffee) and for those who want a little milk, you can ask for leche al lado (milk on the side). Many trendier places serve cappuccinos and espressos and milk is nearly always pasteurized and safe to drink.
Worried that you’ll head back home and dearly miss salsa lizano or Tropical drinks? Thankfully www.lapulpe.com sells Costa Rican products and will ship the goods to just about anywhere in the world.
For a refresher, nothing beats batidos – fresh fruit drinks (like smoothies) made either al agua (with water) or con leche (with milk). The array can be mind-boggling and includes mango, papaya, piña (pineapple), sandía (watermelon), melón (cantaloupe), zarzamora (blackberry), zanahoria (carrot), cebada (barley) or tamarindo (fruit of the tamarind tree). If you are wary about the condition of the drinking water, ask that your batido be made with agua enbotellada (bottled