Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [281]
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PLAYA HERRADURA AREA
Until the mid-1990s, Playa Herradura was a rural, palm-sheltered beach of grayish-black sand that was popular mainly with campers and local fishermen. In the late 1990s, however, Herradura was thrown into the spotlight when it was used as the stage for the movie 1492. Rapid development ensued, resulting in the construction of one of the most high-profile hotels in the country, namely the Los Sueños Marriott Beach and Golf Resort.
While parts of the beach today look like one giant gravel pit, Playa Herradura represents one possible future face of the central Pacific coast. Sprawling complexes of condos and high-rise apartments are slowly encircling the bay and snaking up the mountainside, while the marina boasts rows of luxury yachts and sportfishing vessels. Although opinionated detractors of Playa Herradura are quick to lob insults, there are some truly world-class hotels on the beach and high up in the surrounding mountains that are worth seeking out.
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Sleeping
You have to pay to play in Playa Herradura, so consider moving further down the coast to Jacó if you’re not prepared to bunk down in the top-end price bracket.
Hotel Villa Caletas (2637-0505; www.hotelvillacaletas.com; r US$178-470; ) One of only eight hotels in all of Costa Rica belonging to the Small Distinctive Hotels of Costa Rica group, this complex of ultraexclusive accommodations is located on the tiny headland of Punta Leona. Since it’s perched high on a dramatic hillside, you’ll first have to navigate a 1km-long serpentine driveway adorned with cacti and Victorian lanterns. The drive will be worth it as upon entering the property, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of the Pacific coastline. But, what makes the hotel truly unique is its fusion of architectural styles, incorporating elements as varied as tropical Victorian, Hellenistic and French colonial. Villa Caletas consists of 35 units, each sheltered in a tropical garden and dense foliage that gives the appearance of total isolation. The interiors of the rooms are individually decorated with art and antiques, but nothing is nearly as magnificent as the views you’ll have from your room. There is also a French-influenced restaurant, a striking infinity pool and a private 1km trail leading down the hillside to the beach.
Los Sueños Marriott Beach and Golf Resort (2630-9000; www.lossuenosresort.com; r from US$410; ) This is the US$40 million hotel, marina and condo project that completely transformed this once-secluded bay into one of Costa Rica’s most exclusive destinations. The centerpiece of the project is a 250-berth yacht marina that unfolds onto a lush golf course, upscale shopping center, resort hotel and ultraelite residential development. The entire Spanish colonial complex is a five-star class act from check-in to checkout, but its mass-market approach lacks the intimacy and personality found at Villa Caletas.
Zephyr Palace (2637-0505; www.zephyrpalace.com; r US$550-1500; ) Need more proof that Costa Rica is experiencing some monumental changes? Welcome to the Zephyr Palace, the sister hotel (and pet project) of the Villa Caletas. While the older sibling woos guests with subtle notes of elegance and sophistication, Zephyr whops them over the head with the hedonism mallet. At this veritable marble palace of unchecked luxury, individually decorated theme rooms that wouldn’t look out of place in Las Vegas evoke the splendor of ancient Rome, pharaonic Egypt and the Orient.
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Getting There & Away
The Herradura turnoff is on the Costanera Sur, 3.5km north of the turnoff to Jacó. From here, a paved road leads 3km west to Playa Herradura. There are frequent local buses (₡1200, 20 minutes) connecting Playa Herradura