Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [282]
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JACÓ
Few places in Costa Rica generate as broad a range of opinions and emotions as the beach town of Jacó. In one camp, you have the loyal surfing contingent, resident North American expats and international developers who bill Jacó as the ultimate central Pacific destination and one of the country’s most rapidly developing cities. Truth be told, the surfing is excellent, the restaurants and bars are cosmopolitan, and a skyline of future high-rise apartments and luxury hotels is rapidly being constructed.
However, there is another camp of dissatisfied tourists, concerned environmentalists and marginalized Ticos who would urge you to steer clear of Jacó and make an effort to spread the word to others. Again, truth be told, there is a burgeoning drug and prostitution problem, questions of sustainability and the fear that Ticos are being priced out of their homes.
Like all cases concerning the delicate balance between conservation and development, Jacó is steeped in its fair share of controversy. However, it’s probably best to ignore the hype and the stereotypes alike, and make your own decisions about the place. Although the US-style cityscape of shopping malls and gated communities may be off-putting to some, it’s impossible to deny the beauty of the beach and the surrounding hillsides, and the consistent surf that first put the beach on the map is still as good as it ever was.
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History
Jacó has a special place in the hearts of Ticos as it is the quickest oceanside escape for landlocked denizens of the Central Valley. Many Ticos recall fondly the days when weekend shuttle buses would pick up beach-seekers in the city center and whisk them away to the undeveloped Pacific paradise of Jacó. With warm water, year-round consistent surf, world-class fishing and a relaxed, beachside setting, it was hard to believe that a place this magical was only a short bus ride away from San José.
The secret got out in the early 1990s when Canadians on package tours started flooding Jacó, though for the most part tourism remained pretty low-key. Things picked up a bit in the late 1990s when surfers and anglers the world over started visiting Costa Rica en masse, though Jacó remained the dominion of Central Valley Ticos looking for a little fun and sun. However, things changed dramatically as soon as retiring baby boomers in search of cheap property began to colonize this once tiny Costa Rican beach town.
In only a few years’ time, Jacó became the most rapidly developing town (some would argue city) in all of Costa Rica. Plots of land were subdivided, beachfronts were cleared, hillsides were leveled and almost overnight Jacó became the exclusive enclave of moneyed expats. Ticos were happy that development brought coveted Western institutions such as paved roads and fast-food restaurants, but as the initial flash of cash and glitz started to fade, some began to wonder if they had inadvertently sold the doormat beneath their feet.
It’s anybody’s guess as to where the future of Jacó lies. Optimists point out that the town is simply experiencing growing pains, and argue that the drugs and prostitution will subside just as soon as the infrastructure stabilizes and the town residents begin to clamp down on illicit vices. Pessimists are quick to retort that wealth attracts opportunism, especially of the illicit kind, and that the problems in Jacó are just getting started.
Regardless of which camp you fall into, one thing is for certain: all of Costa Rica is casting a watchful eye on Jacó, and will ultimately point to the city as either an example of development gone awry, or a success story of wealth creation.
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Orientation
Playa Jacó is about 2km off the Costanera, 3.5km past the turnoff for Herradura. The beach itself is about 3km long, and hotels and restaurants line the road running behind it. The areas on the northern and southern fringes are the most tranquil and attractive, and are the cleanest.
In an effort to make foreign visitors