Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [292]
If you’re looking for the ‘other’ Playa Hermosa on the Península de Nicoya, Click here.
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Activities
SURFING
Most of the adrenaline-soaked action takes place at the northern reaches, where there are no less than half a dozen clearly defined beach breaks. Conditions are highly variable, but you can expect the maximum height to top out around high tide. Swell size is largely dependent on unseen factors such as current and offshore weather patterns, but when it gets big, you’ll know. At times like these, you really shouldn’t be paddling out unless you have some serious experience under your belt. Playa Hermosa is not for beginners, and even intermediate surfers on occasion get chewed up and spit out here.
YOGA
High in the hills above Playa Hermosa lies the Vida Asana Retreat Center (2643-7108; www.vidaasana.com), which offers fully customizable packages combining yoga, surfing, rustic jungle accommodations and healthy organic meals. Advanced reservations are highly recommended, and prices are dependent on the size of your party, the season and the extent of requested instruction.
CANOPY TOURS
Playa Hermosa is, surprisingly enough, home to a canopy tour, which blends the usual forested surrounds with panoramic views of the central Pacific coastline. Chiclets Canopy Tour (2643-3271; per person US$60), located 500m north of town on the main highway, is comprised of 13 platforms, 11 zip lines and a suspension bridge.
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Festivals & Events
If you don’t think you can hack it with the aspiring pros, you might want to give the surf on this beach a miss. However, consider stopping by in August when local and international pro surfers descend on Hermosa for the annual surf competition. Dates vary, though the event is heavily advertised around the country, especially in neighboring Jacó.
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Sleeping
The highway is the only road, and all of the accommodations listed below are just off it. While there aren’t proper addresses to speak of, everything is clustered along an easy-to-identify stretch unofficially known as ‘Playa Hermosa Village.’
BUDGET
Cabinas Brisa del Mar (2643-2076; http://cabinasbrisadelmar.com; s/d/tr US$25/40/45; ) If your wallet is looking a bit thin these days, consider bunking down at this Floridian-run crash pad, which is decidedly more budget-friendly than the vast majority of options in Hermosa. Brisa del Mar has a few rooms of varying sizes with air-con, private hot shower and cable TV, as well as a communal kitchen where you can self-cater. If the surf is looking too small (or too big!), you can pass the time on the basketball court or with a few games of table tennis.
Cabinas Las Arenas (2643-7013; www.cabinaslasarenas.com; s/d/tr/q US$37/49/55/62; ) Another one of just a handful of hotels in Hermosa that cater exclusively to the backpacking surfer crowd, Las Arenas sticks to the basics in an effort to keep prices on the low side. The property comprises 10 cabins that can each sleep up to four, providing tremendous bang for your buck if you’re traveling in a group. The premises are also home to a full restaurant, surf supply shop and a small beach BBQ pit.
MIDRANGE
Cabinas Las Olas Hotel (2643-7021; www.lasolashotel.com; r US$45-75, ranchos US$100, skybox US$100; ) This distinctive three-story A-frame building is home to the awesome ‘skybox room,’ a teak-accented, ocean-facing penthouse where you can fall asleep and wake up to the sounds of the surf. If heights aren’t your thing, you can also rent one of several beachside ranchos (small houses) that come equipped with kitchenette and sleep several people comfortably. Alternatively, price-conscious travelers can snag a cheap but cheerful room in the main house.
Posada Playa Hermosa (2643-2640; www.fbsurfboards.com/surfcamp;