Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [293]
Costanera Bed and Breakfast (2643-1942; www.costaneraplayahermosa.com; r from US$55; ) For a bit of European flair, this well-priced Italian-run B&B has a very sophisticated ambience. Five rooms of various sizes and shapes have vaulted wooden ceilings and beachfront terraces, each offering a fair degree of privacy and intimacy. Of course, the undisputed highlight of these accommodations is the authentic handmade pasta and rich Italian sauces served at the onsite restaurant each evening.
Tortuga del Mar (2643-7132; www.tortugadelmar.net; r US$75, studios from US$85; ) Top-end accommodations with a recession-proof midrange price tag, this brand-new lodge is sheltered amid shady grounds, and comprised of just a handful of rooms housed in a two-story building. Tropical modern is the style at hand, making excellent use of local hardwoods to construct lofty ceilings that catch every gust of the Pacific breezes. The larger studios are spacious by all accounts, and even feature minikitchenettes that make self-catering a real possibility within this budget bracket.
TOP END
Terraza del Pacífico (2643-3222; www.terrazadelpacifico.com; r/ste from US$115/175; ) The granddaddy of top-end hotels is this standout property, located on prime beachfront overlooking some seriously killer breaks at the northern end of town. With Spanish colonial accents and luxurious tiled-floor rooms throughout, this Hermosa establishment is strictly for upscale surfers. Assuming you can pry yourself away from the beach, there is also a whole list of impressive amenities on offer ranging from a pool with swim-up bar to a small but energetic casino.
Backyard Hotel (2643-7011; www.backyardhotel.com; r/ste from US$130/180; ) Despite being a new addition to the Hermosa scene, the Backyard is a premium boutique hotel that has substantially raised the bar on quality. The highlight of the property is the Backyard Bar, a bustling bar and restaurant that is also open to the public, and serves as the nexus for nightlife in formerly sleepy Hermosa. Rooms themselves are well appointed with modern home furnishings that reflect good taste, and face either the beach or the forested hillsides inland.
Return to beginning of chapter
Eating & Drinking
Jungle Surf Café (meals ₡1500-5000; 7am-9pm) If you’re looking for a quick bite between sets, this terminally laid-back cafe is a local institution that offers everything from burritos to kebabs, though locals swear by the seriously gourmet fish tacos. There is also a small bar decorated with the obligatory surf paraphernalia that makes for a refreshing sundowner after a long day of thrashing about in the waves.
Jammin Café (meals ₡2000-5000; 7am-9pm) While you’re somewhat far from the shores of the Caribbean, this Rasta-inspired eatery brings a much welcome dose of mellow to the Pacific. It’s particularly popular for its generous breakfasts, which combine US-style omelets and pancakes with Costa Rican standards, namely tropical fruits, coconut-scented gallo pinto (rice and beans) and shade-grown coffee.
Backyard Bar (2643-7011; meals ₡2500-7000; noon-late) A proper eatery unlike any that Hermosa has ever known, this is where you should head for an expansive menu that reaches beyond the usual surfer fare. As the town’s de facto nightspot, the Backyard Bar occasionally hosts live music, and you can also count on a happy hour here every night of the week.
Return to beginning of chapter
Getting There & Away
Located only 5km south of Jacó, Playa Hermosa can be accessed by any bus heading south from Jacó. Frequent buses running up and down the Costanera