Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [294]
Since Jacó serves as the regional transportation hub, Click here for detailed information on getting there and away.
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PLAYA ESTERILLOS
Just 22km south of Jacó is this beautiful stretch of pale gray sand, which can easily be reached by short side roads from the Costanera Sur. Although the beach is relatively undiscovered and little visited, there are a few great surf spots here, which should be evident once you see the small groups of surfers camping underneath the trees at the northern edge of the beach.
For anyone not keen on exposing themselves to the elements, there’s always the long-standing Pélican Hotel (2778-8105; www.pelicanhotelcr.com; r from US$45; ), a homey, beachfront spot that has a handful of rustic rooms, and is only steps away from the surf. And of course, there are plenty of hammocks onsite – perfect for lounging – as well as free surfboards, body boards and bikes for guests.
If it’s possible for you to stretch your budget for a night or two, do not miss the chance to stay at the Xandari by the Pacific (2778-7070; ww.xandari.com; villas US$295-440; ), a visually stunning resort that is aiming to put Playa Esterillos on the map. There is no shortage of attractive resorts along this stretch of the Pacific, but what makes Xandari so unique is the incredible architectural scheme that is evident from the moment you step foot on the property. Each individually designed villa encompasses a range of intriguing design elements including wooden-lattice ceilings, sheer walls of glass framing private gardens, concrete-poured furniture done up with custom leatherwork and impossibly intricate mosaic tile work. As if all of this wasn’t enough to make you postpone your onward travel plans, there is also an onsite restaurant specializing in gourmet and organic healthy fare, as well as an immaculate palm-fringed infinity pool that faces the crashing surf.
The Playa Esterillos area can be a little confusing to navigate as there are three towns with access to the beach: Esterillos Oeste, Esterillos Centro and Esterillos Este. These towns are all off the Costanera about 22km, 25km and 30km southeast of Jacó, respectively, and can all be reached by any bus heading south from Jacó.
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PARRITA
A bustling town on a river of the same name, Parrita is home to a tremendous palm oil processing plant. If the wind is blowing right, the plant can be smelled from several kilometers away, though the odor is somewhat pleasant if you’re a fan of fried foods. Although palm oil doesn’t have the immediate recognition as olive oil perhaps, the product finds its way into just about everything, from chocolate bars and french fries to baked goods and snack foods.
While you’re driving through the area, watch the workers in the fields on the sides of the road as the palm oil industry is a fascinating one. In terms of day-to-day maintenance, workers spend hours keeping the palms clear of insects, which is accomplished by clearing growth on the forest floor and applying poison to the trunks. In addition, fronds must be regularly clipped in order to encourage fruit growth and to provide easy access to the pod. Workers must also collect mature pods and transport them to processing plants where the fruits are separated and pressed. This last step is perhaps most evident in the huge big-rig trucks stacked full of reddish fruit that come flying down this relatively poor stretch of the Costanera Sur – be careful if you’re on the road out there!
The primary reason for visiting Parrita is to visit Playa Palo Seco, a quiet, unhurried black-sand beach located near mangrove swamps that provide good opportunities for bird-watching. A 6km dirt road connects the eastern edge of town to the beach. Another popular excursion is to visit Isla Damas, which is actually the tip of a mangrove peninsula that becomes an island at high tide. Most people arrive here on package