Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [299]
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Rancho Casa Grande (2777-3130; www.ranchocasagrande.com; ste/bungalows/villas from US$118/146/280; ) This resort hotel, located out on the road to the Quepos airport, benefits from an expansive concession that is crisscrossed by hiking and horseback-riding trails. Luxury here is of the low-key variety, and the rancho is most definitely not in the same league as some of the more posh places found further out along the Quepos–Manuel Antonio road. But if you’re looking for bucolic ambience without having to sacrifice customer service, you’ll feel right at home here.
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Eating
For a small Tico town (albeit on the edge of a major tourist attraction), Quepos is home to a surprising number of eateries that aspire to meet international standards of quality. In fact, one of the main appeals of staying in the town center is having so many excellent places virtually right on your doorstep.
For more eating options, see the Quepos to Manuel Antonio section, Click here, as well as the Manuel Antonio Village section, Click here.
If you want to go local, you can’t go wrong with the mercado central (central market; hours vary), a vast complex in the center of town that hosts plenty of budget-friendly sodas and cafes in addition to fruit and vegetable vendors.
Café Milagro (dishes ₡1000-3000;6am-10pm Mon-Fri) Serving some of the country’s best cappuccino and espresso, this is a great place to perk up in the morning – try the perezoso (meaning ‘lazy’ or ‘sloth’), which is a double espresso poured into a large cup of drip-filter coffee. Or, if you want to simply relax and read the English-language newspapers that are available, you can indulge in a baked good or a freshly made deli sandwich.
Escalofrío (gelato ₡1000, meals ₡3000-5500; Tue-Sun) Here you’ll find more than 20 different flavors of gelato, which may just be the perfect way to beat the tropical heat. There is also a spacious alfresco seating area where you can sample other Italian treats including espressos and cappuccinos as well as an assortment of pizzas and pastas.
Monchados (dishes ₡4000-7500; 5pm-midnight) Something of a Quepos institution, this long-standing Mex-Carib spot is always bustling with dinner-goers who line up to try traditional Limón-style dishes and Mexican standards. Food here is eclectic, innovative and never bland, a theme that is also reflected in the vibrant decorations and fairly regular live music.
Tropical Sushi (meals ₡4500-8000; 5-10pm) Quepos has gone cosmopolitan – for authentic Japanese (yes, the sushi chef is from Japan!), try this colorfully decorated restaurant, which occasionally has all-you-can-eat specials. If you’re a purist, you can stick to the tuna sashimi spreads, though it’s worth venturing out a bit and sampling some of the local Costa Rican–style rolls.
El Patio (meals ₡5500-12,000; 6am-10pm) This Nuevo Latino spot is adored by locals and tourists alike, in part because its menu changes daily yet never fails to entice and surprise. The unspoken rule here is fresh and local, which means that meats, seafood and produce are always of the highest quality, and always prepared in a way that highlights their natural flavors. If you’re a fan of tapas, sample a few dishes here, though go slow and enjoy your meal over a few glasses of imported wine.
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Drinking & Entertainment
Nightlife in Quepos has a good blend of locals and travelers, and it’s cheaper than anything you’ll find in the Manuel Antonio area. If you are looking for something a bit more sophisticated, however, it’s easy enough to jump in a taxi.
Dos Locos (2777-1526; 7am-11pm Mon-Sat, 11am-10pm Sun) This popular Mexican restaurant also serves as a regular drinking spot for the local expat community, and as a venue