Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [300]
El Gran Escape (2777-0395; 6am-11pm) A fishermen-friendly bar and restaurant that is good for cold beer, warm pub grub and some light-hearted chit-chat about the one that got away.
Sargento García (2777-2960; 9am-9pm) This Stars-and-Stripes tribute bar may be a bit heavy on the Americana for some, but look no further if you’re craving a Budweiser.
Discoteca Arco Iris (10pm-late) An industrial-sized discotheque just north of town that brings out the locals with thumping dance beats.
If you feel like putting your cash on the line, there’s a small but suitable casino at the Best Western Hotel Kamuk.
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Getting There & Away
AIR
Both NatureAir (www.natureair.com) and Sansa (www.sansa.com) service Quepos, which is the base town for accessing Manuel Antonio. Prices vary according to season and availability, though you can expect to pay a little less than US$75 for a flight from San José or Liberia. Flights are packed in the high season, so book (and pay) for your ticket well ahead of time and reconfirm often.
Lynch Travel (2777-1170; www.lynchtravel.com) can book charter flights to and from the Quepos area.
The airport is 5km out of town, and taxis make the trip for a few thousand colones, depending on traffic.
BUS
All buses arrive and depart from the main terminal in the center of town. Buy tickets for San José well in advance at the Transportes Morales ticket office (2777-0263; 7-11am & 1-5pm Mon-Sat, 7am-1pm Sun) at the bus terminal. Buses from Quepos depart for the following destinations:
Jacó ₡800; 1½ hours; departs 4:30am, 7:30am, 10:30am and 3pm.
Puntarenas ₡2100; 3½ hours; departs 8am, 10:30am and 3:30pm.
San Isidro, via Dominical ₡2000; three hours; departs 5am and 1:30pm.
San José (Transportes Morales) ₡3500 to ₡3700; four hours; departs 5am, 8am, 10am, noon, 2pm, 4pm and 7:30pm.
Uvita, via Dominical ₡4000; 4½ hours; departs 10am and 7pm.
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Getting Around
BUS
Buses between Quepos and Manuel Antonio (₡200) depart roughly every 30 minutes from the main terminal between 6am and 7:30pm, and less frequently after 7:30pm. The last bus departs Manuel Antonio at 10:25pm. There are more frequent buses in the dry season.
CAR
The following car-rental companies operate in Quepos; reserve ahead and reconfirm to guarantee availability:
Alamo (2777-3344; 7:30am-noon & 1:30-5:30pm)
Elegante (2777-0115; 7:30am-5pm Mon-Fri)
TAXI
Colectivo taxis between Quepos and Manuel Antonio will usually pick up extra passengers for a few hundred colones. A private taxi will cost a few thousand colones. Call Quepos Taxi (2777-0425/734) or catch one at the taxi stand south of the market.
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QUEPOS TO MANUEL ANTONIO
From the port of Quepos, the road swings inland for 7km before reaching the beaches of Manuel Antonio village and the entrance to the national park. This serpentine route passes over a number of hills awash with picturesque views of forested slopes leading down to the palm-fringed coastline. Although this area is anything but cheap, it is home to some of Costa Rica’s finest hotels and restaurants. While shoestringers and budget travelers are somewhat catered for, this is one part of the country where those with deep pockets can bed down and dine out in the lap of luxury.
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Orientation
Note that the road to Manuel Antonio is steep, winding and very narrow. Worse, local bus drivers love to careen through at high velocities, and there are almost no places to pull over in the event of an emergency. At all times, you should exercise caution and drive and walk with care, especially at night.
SAVING THE SQUIRREL MONKEY
With its expressive eyes and luxuriant coat, the mono tití (Central American squirrel monkey) is arguably the most beautiful of Costa Rica’s four monkey species. It is also in danger of extinction as there are roughly 1500 of these animals left in Manuel Antonio, one of its last remaining native habitats.
Unfortunately, the area is nearing environmental