Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [318]
A few kilometers before Uvita, you’ll see a signed turnoff to the left on a rough dirt road (4WD only) that leads 3.5km up the hill (look over your shoulder for great views of Parque Nacional Marino Ballena) to Reserva Biológica Oro Verde (2743-8072, 8843-8833). This private reserve is on the farm of the Duarte family, who have lived in the area for more than three decades. Two-thirds of the 150-hectare property is rainforest, and there are guided hikes, horseback-riding tours and bird-watching walks. Tour prices are variable.
Opposite the turnoff to Oro Verde is Rancho La Merced National Wildlife Refuge (2771-4582; www.rancholamerced.com; d incl full board per person US$80), a 506-hectare national wildlife refuge (and former cattle ranch) with primary and secondary forests and mangroves lining the Río Morete. Here you can take guided nature hikes, horseback-riding tours to Punta Uvita and bird-watching walks. You can also stay at La Merced in a 1940s farmhouse, which can accommodate up to 10 people in double rooms of various sizes. Tour prices vary.
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Sleeping & Eating
The main entrance to Uvita leads inland, east of the highway, where you’ll find the following places. For more accommodations options, also check out the sections on Parque Nacional Marino Ballena (Click here) and Ojochal (Click here).
Tucan Hotel (2743-8140; www.tucanhotel.com; tents/hammocks/tree house US$5/6/12, dm US$10, d US$25-30; ) Located 100m inland from the main highway, this is the most popular hostel in Uvita – and with good reason. Run by a delightful family that has made some major changes here in the last few years, the Tucan is home to a variety of accommodations to suit all budgets, from simple tents and hammocks to dorms, private rooms and the lofty tree house. Even though the beach is right down the road, most guests never escape the evil clutches of the hammock movie theater, a spectacular creation that needs to be treated with respect unless you want to defer your future travel plans.
Cabinas Los Laureles (2743-8235; www.cabinasloslaureles.com; campsites US$10, s/d from US$20/25; ) About 200m up the road you’ll find this pleasant, locally run spot which has eight clean, polished-wood cabins that are set in a beautiful grove of laurels. If you’re looking for a bit of local flavor and authentic Costa Rican hospitality, this is a good choice. The friendly and accommodating family can arrange horseback rides, boat tours and any other activities you might be interested in.
Cascada Verde (2743-8191; www.cascadaverde.org; dm US$12, shared loft per person US$12, s/d from US$16/25; ) About 2km inland and uphill from Uvita, this organic permaculture farm and holistic retreat attracts legions of dedicated alternative lifestylers, who typically spend weeks here searching for peace of mind and sound body. Accommodations are extremely basic and somewhat exposed to the elements, though there is ample outdoor communal space for yoga and quiet meditation, and you’ll sleep deeply at night if you’ve spent any time here working on the farm. Cascada Verde is also home to a restaurant that serves vegetarian and raw-food specialties, which take advantage of produce grown on the property. A taxi here costs about ₡1500 from the highway area.
Las Terrazas de Ballena (2743-8034; www.terrazasdeballena.com; ste US$150-170;) Located about 1.5km up in the hills about Uvita, this secluded Balinese-style boutique hotel quickly transports you to the other end of the Earth. Three luxury suites are given life through exposed stone and thatch, indigenous artwork and minimalist furnishings, and they open up to expansive views of the marine national park below. Chilled-out common areas with plush pillows, soft electronic music and ample Buddha statues complete the ensemble. Even if you’re not staying here, stop by for some Pan-Asian fusion