Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [319]
Return to beginning of chapter
Getting There & Away
Most buses depart from the two sheltered bus stops on the Costanera in the main village.
San Isidro de El General ₡800; 1½ hours; departs 6am and 2pm.
San José ₡2500; seven hours; departs 5am, 6am and 2pm.
Return to beginning of chapter
PARQUE NACIONAL MARINO BALLENA
This stunner of a marine park protects coral and rock reefs surrounding Isla Ballena. Despite its small size, the importance of this area cannot be overstated, especially since it protects migrating humpback whales, pods of dolphins and nesting sea turtles, not to mention colonies of sea birds and several terrestrial reptiles.
Although Ballena is essentially off the radar screens of most coastal travelers, this can be an extremely rewarding destination for beach-lovers and wildlife-watchers alike. The lack of tourist crowds means that you can enjoy a quiet day at the beach – something that is not always possible in Costa Rica. And, with a little luck and a bit of patience, you just might catch a glimpse of a humpback breaching or a few dolphins gliding through the surf.
Return to beginning of chapter
Orientation & Information
Heading southeast from Punta Uvita, the park includes 13km of sandy and rocky beaches, mangrove swamps, estuaries and rocky headlands. All six kinds of Costa Rican mangrove occur within the park. There are coral reefs near the shore, though they were heavily damaged by sediment run-off from the construction of the coastal highway. Entrance is at the ranger station (2743-8236; admission US$6; dawn-dusk) in Playa Bahía Uvita, the seaside extension of Uvita.
Return to beginning of chapter
Sights & Activities
The beaches at Parque Nacional Marino Ballena are a stunning combination of golden sand and polished rock. All of them are virtually deserted and perfect for peaceful swimming and sunbathing. And the lack of visitors means you’ll have a number of quiet opportunities for good bird-watching.
From the station, you can walk out onto Punta Uvita and snorkel (best at low tide). Boats from Playa Bahía Uvita to Isla Ballena can be hired for up to US$30 per person for a two-hour snorkeling trip, though you are not allowed to stay overnight on the island.
If you’re looking to get under the water, Mystic Dive Center (2788-8636; www.mysticdivecenter.com; Playa Ventanas) is a PADI operation that offers scuba trips in the national park.
There is also some decent surfing near the river mouth at the southern end of Playa Colonia.
WILDLIFE-WATCHING
Although the park gets few human visitors, the beaches are frequently visited by a number of different animal species, including nesting seabirds, bottle-nosed dolphins and a variety of lizards. And from May to November, with a peak in September and October, both olive ridley and hawksbill turtles bury their eggs in the sand nightly. However, the star attraction are the pods of humpback whales that pass through the national park from August to October and December to April.
Scientists are unsure as to why humpback whales migrate here, though it’s possible that Costa Rican waters may be one of only a few places in the world where humpback whales mate. There are actually two different groups of humpbacks that pass through the park – whales seen in the fall migrate from California waters, while those seen in the spring originate from Antarctica.
Return to beginning of chapter
Sleeping
The park is home to a free campground just 300m from the entrance, which has toilets and showers but no electricity. Keep in mind that the campsite is not secure, so do not leave any valuables lying around inside your tent. As such, the vast majority of travelers prefer to stay in nearby Uvita (Click here) or Ojochal (below), and visit the marine park on a day trip.
Return to beginning of chapter
Getting There & Away
Parque Nacional Marino Ballena is best accessed from Uvita or Ojochal, either by private vehicle or a quick taxi ride – inquire at your accommodations for