Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [320]
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OJOCHAL AREA
Beyond Uvita, the Costanera Sur follows the coast as far as Palmar, approximately 40km away. This route provides a coastal alternative to the Interamericana, as well as convenient access to points in the Península de Osa (Click here).
Remote beaches along this stretch are slowly being discovered as more and more travelers head this way, though the pace of life remains calm and unhurried. The Ojochal area also serves as a convenient base for exploring nearby Parque Nacional Marino Ballena, and there are plenty of accommodations here to choose from, in addition to a couple of excellent restaurants that are destinations themselves.
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Orientation
About 14km south of Uvita is the wilderness beach of Playa Tortuga, which is largely undiscovered and virtually undeveloped, but it’s home to some occasional bouts of decent surf. One kilometer further south is the small village of Ojochal, which offers a couple of accommodations and restaurants, and serves as the main reference point along this part of the coastline.
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Sleeping
Note that accommodations in this section are listed from north to south.
La Cusinga (2770-2549; www.lacusingalodge.com; Finca Tres Hermanas; s/d US$118/149; ) About 5km south of Uvita, this beachside ecolodge is admirably powered by the hydroelectric energy provided by a small stream, and centered on a working organic farm. Accommodations are in natural-style wooden rooms that epitomize simple and uncomplicated living, though guests tend to spend most of their time on boat trips to the national park, hiking and bird-watching on the onsite network of trails, and snorkeling and swimming in the national park. If you work up an appetite, head to the farmhouse and dine on rural Tico-style food that includes locally raised chicken, fresh seafood and organic produce.
Finca Bavaria (8355-4465; www.finca-bavaria.de; s/d from US$60/70; ) This quaint German-run inn comprises a handful of pleasing rooms with wood accents, bamboo furniture and romantic mosquito net–draped beds. The lush grounds are hemmed by forest, though you can always ascend to the hilltop pool and take in the sweeping views of the open ocean. And of course, there’s plenty of great German beer served by the stein. Look for the signed dirt road on the inland side of the road just beyond La Cusinga.
Lookout at Playa Tortuga (2786-5074; www.hotelcostarica.com; d US$70-80; ) A signed turnoff on the eastern side of the road just after mile marker 175 leads to this beautiful hilltop sanctuary, where you’ll find a dozen brightly painted rooms awash in calming pastels. The grounds are traversed by a series of paths overlooking the beaches below, but the highlight is the large wooden deck in a tower above the pool. Here you can pursue some early morning bird-watching, or perhaps better yet, indulge in some late-afternoon slothful lounging.
Hotel Villas Gaia (8382-8240; www.villasgaia.com; r from US$80; ) Along the beach side of the road is this beautifully kept collection of shiny wooden cabins, set in tranquil forested grounds. There is also an excellent restaurant serving a wide variety of international standards, as well as a hilltop pool where you can swim a few laps while enjoying the panoramic view of Playa Tortuga. The beach itself is a pleasant 20-minute hike along a dirt path that winds down the hillside.
Diquis el Sur (2786-5012; diquiscostarica.com; r per day/week from US$50/300; ) In Ojochal proper, this French Canadian–run bed and breakfast is a home away from home, by the night or by the week. Accommodations are in a variety of fairly modest rooms that are priced by amenities, though all have kitchenettes conducive to self-catering. An interesting side fact: the property is named after the ‘Diquis Spheres,’ which are pre-Columbian stone balls that were rumored to have come from Atlantis. They are currently being displayed in the courtyard of the Museo Nacional de Costa Rica in San José (Click here).
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