Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [325]
Dantica Lodge and Gallery (8352-2761; www.dantica.com; r/ste from US$142/180; ) Definitely the slickest place in San Gerardo, if not the whole southern zone, this upscale lodge consists of beautiful natural wood and stone cabins that are bedecked with artwork displayed in glass cases from the owner’s native Colombia. The modern twist comes in the form of luxurious black leather sofas, flat-screen plasma TVs, Jacuzzi bathtubs and sophisticated track lighting. The kicker, though, is the wall of picture windows that provides extraordinary vistas over the cloud forest. A romantic breakfast is served each morning on your private terrace, which will most likely be frequented by countless species of tropical birds. You also have a nature reserve complete with private trails at your doorstep, as well as a health spa where you can pamper your feet after hiking.
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Getting There & Away
The turnoff to San Gerardo de Dota is near Km 80 on the Interamericana. From here, the dirt road descends 8km to the village. The road is very steep: be careful if you’re in an ordinary car. Buses between San José and San Isidro de El General can drop you at the turnoff.
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PARQUE NACIONAL LOS QUETZALES
This national park, formerly known as the Reserva Los Santos, was made official in 2005 in honor of the very quetzal that first put this region of Costa Rica on the tourist map. Spread along both banks of the Río Savegre, at an altitude of 2000m to 3000m, Los Quetzales covers 50 sq km of rain and cloud forest lying along the slopes of the Cordillera de Talamanca.
TALAMANCA TROUT FISHING
While most sportfishers flock to the coast for the thrill of the big catch, the mountain rivers of the Cordillera de Talamanca offer a different kind of fishing experience. The crystal-clear waters and the cool air of the cloud forest are a delightfully tranquil setting, and the fish – here, rainbow trout – are no less tasty.
Interestingly, the trout that populate these rivers are not endemic. Supposedly, they were first introduced to Central American rivers by the US military in Panama and the healthy fish made their way north into Costa Rican waters. The most popular spot for trout fishing is the Río Savegre, although the nearby Río Blanca and Río Dota also attract local anglers.
In order to maintain healthy populations, fishers are strongly encouraged to limit stream fishing to catch and release. If you want to take home your trout for dinner, fish in one of the local spring-fed ponds, which are well stocked with 30cm to 50cm trout. Success is guaranteed and you just pay for what you take home (about US$4 per kilogram). This is a great option for kids and folk with poor fishing karma.
Finca Madre Selva (2224-6388; Copey de Dota) A popular local fishing spot that is home to a well-stocked trout pond as well as hiking trails – good for a full day of fun.
Pesca Deportiva Río Blanca (2541-1818/6; Copey de Dota) Near Santa María de Dota, this is another local spot that is popular among Tico families.
Ranchos La Isla (2740-1038; San Gerardo de Dota) Borrow equipment to fish in the river and ponds, then bring your catch back and have the staff fry it up for dinner.
Savegre Hotel de Montaña (2740-1028; San Gerardo de Dota) This lodge provides equipment and guides for fly-fishing in Río Savegre, or you can fish in the picturesque pond and pay for what you catch. See above for more information.
The lifeblood of the park is the Río Savegre, which starts high up on the Cerro de la Muerte and feeds several mountain streams and glacial lakes at a range of altitudes before pouring into the Pacific near the coastal town of Savegre. Although it covers a relatively small area, this region is remarkably biodiverse – the Savegre watershed contains approximately 20% of all the registered bird species in Costa Rica.
As the park’s new name implies, this area is extremely rich in birdlife – the resplendent quetzal is only one of the many