Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [326]
While hiking through the higher altitudes, take notice of the fact that the flora is very different from what you will see in the lowland forests. The park, which is classified as montane and premontane forests (the latter being the second-most endangered life zone in Costa Rica), is home to massive oak trees and alpine plants.
The park does not have any facilities for tourists, aside from a small ranger station (2200-5354; admission US$10; 8am-4pm) where you must pay your park fees. From here, a modest network of bird-watching trails radiates out into the forest beyond.
All of the lodges around San Gerardo de Dota (Click here) organize hiking and bird-watching tours. With advanced reservations, it is sometimes possible to gain entrance to the park at sunrise, which will put you in the center of the action just in time for morning song.
EXPLORE MORE: LOS QUETZALES
The area around San Gerardo is full of unofficial hiking trails that skirt the perimeter of Los Quetzales. As an example, if you follow the road to San Gerardo to its end, an unmarked trail will lead you through lush forest to a spectacular waterfall. With that said, it’s worth inquiring locally for more specific directions – or better yet hire a local guide – before you set out into the forest as the going can get difficult in these parts.
The national park is bordered by the Interamericana, with the entrance lying just past Km 76 en route to Cerro de la Muerte. Any bus along this route can drop you off at the ranger station, though most people arrive with their guide in a private car or coach.
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CERRO DE LA MUERTE
Along the stretch between Empalme and San Isidro de El General, the highway passes the highest point along the Interamericana, the famed Cerro de la Muerte (3491m). The so-called ‘Hill of Death’ received this moniker before the paved road was built, though the steep, fog-shrouded highway, which climbs high into the clouds, is still considered one of the most dangerous in Costa Rica. When the fog clears, however, this area offers exquisite panoramic views of the Cordillera de Talamanca – but only for a moment, as the fog undoubtedly rolls back in almost immediately.
Cerro de la Muerte marks the northernmost extent of the páramo, a highland shrub and tussock grass habitat typical of the southern zone. This Andean-style landscape is extremely rich in wildlife and is home to many of the same species found in nearby Parque Nacional Chirripó (Click here). The area is also part of the Parque Nacional Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte, which offers even more opportunities for hiking and bird-watching.
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Orientation
The road itself is paved and smooth, but it twists and turns around the mountain, which can make overtaking treacherous and potentially life-ending. During the rainy season, landslides may partially or completely block the road. As in most places in rural Costa Rica, it’s best to avoid driving at night.
Parque Nacional Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte is also accessible from the Central Valley & Highlands region. For more information, Click here.
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Sleeping & Eating
Iyök Ami (8387-2238, 2772-0222; www.ecotourism.co.cr/iyokami/index.htm; Interamericana Km 71; reserve admission US$5, s/d from US$30/40; ) Meaning ‘Mother Earth’ in the Bribrí language, Iyök Ami is a private cloud-forest reserve, ecolodge, quaint coffee shop and volunteer opportunity, all in one. Considering that one Tica woman manages everything, this is an extremely impressive operation that is certainly worthy of a measure of your support. Rustic, no-frills cabins are tucked away on the edge of the forest, providing easy access to 6km of hiking trails, while delicious country-style meals await you on your return. If you’d like to extend your stay