Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [327]
Mirador Vista del Valle (8384-4685, 8836-6193; www.ecotourism.co.cr/vistadelvalle; Interamericana Km 119; s/d US$41/47; ) Aptly named, the ‘View of the Valley Lookout’ boasts a windowed restaurant offering panoramic views that perfectly complement local specialties such as fried trout fillet, and fresh-brewed coffee. Below the restaurant, cabins built entirely from cultivated wood are brightened by colorful indigenous tapestries. Guests can also take advantage of nearly 11km of onsite trails that allow for excellent bird-watching.
Mirador de Quetzales (2771-8456; www.exploringcostarica.com/mirador/quetzales.html; Interamericana Km 70; cabins per person incl 2 meals US$50; ) Commonly known as Eddie Serrano’s farm, this excellent-value lodging option is located about 1km west of the Interamericana. Painted wood walls and colorful curtains brighten up the eight cozy cabins that line the farm’s ridge (and electric heaters warm them up). Prices also include an early-morning ‘quetzal walk’ – the bright beauties reside in these forested hills year-round, but sightings are virtually guaranteed between November and April.
Bosque del Tolomuco (8847-7207; www.bosquedeltolomuco.com; Interamericana Km 118; d from US$65; ) Named for the sly tayra (tree otter) spotted on the grounds, this cutesy B&B is run by a lovely, loquacious Canadian couple. There are four spacious, light-filled cabins, the most charming of which is the secluded ‘Hummingbird Cabin.’ The grounds offer 5km of hiking trails, ample opportunities to indulge in bird-watching and some magnificent views of Los Cruces. A made-to-order gourmet dinner is also available with advance notice.
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Getting There & Away
Frequent buses running between San José and San Isidro de El General can drop you off at any of the lodges listed here.
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SAN ISIDRO DE EL GENERAL
Considering that most settlements in the southern zone are mere mountain villages, it doesn’t take much in these parts to be called a ‘big city.’ Truth be told, with a population of only 45,000, San Isidro de El General is little more than a large sprawling town, though it does boast a Western supermarket, a McDonald’s and a surprising concentration of gas stations. As you’d imagine, there is little here to capture the tourist imagination, though rural residents of the southern zone can’t help but flock to the bright city lights.
With that said, ‘El General’ is the region’s largest population center and major transportation hub, so it’s likely that you’ll pass through here at some point in your travels. And, if you do happen to get stuck here for longer than you intended, fret not as there are some interesting attractions in the surrounding area (see boxed text). There are also some truly wonderful accommodations options lying just outside the town environs that are worthy destinations in their own right.
And, if it’s any consolation, the women of San Isidro de El General are widely regarded as Costa Rica’s finest – must be all that fresh mountain air and strong coffee!
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Orientation
The heart of San Isidro is the network of narrow streets clustered around the Parque Central. An uncharacteristic but nevertheless impressive neo-Gothic cathedral lords over the eastern end of this square.
Note that locals sometimes refer to San Isidro as Pérez – the surrounding county is Pérez Zeledón. Though labeled on the map, streets are poorly signed and everyone uses landmarks to orient themselves (see boxed text).
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Information
INTERNET ACCESS
Brunc@Net Café (2771-3235; Av Central btwn Calles Central & 1; per hr ₡500; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun)
BTC Internet (2771-3993; Av 2 btwn Calles Central & 1; per hr ₡500; 8:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Clínica El Labrador (2771-7115, 2771-5354; Calle 1 btwn Avs 8 & 10) This medical service has private