Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [328]
MONEY
Banco Coopealianza Avenida 2 (btwn Calles Central & 1); Avenida 4 (btwn Calles 2 & 4) Both branches have 24-hour ATMs on the Cirrus network.
POST
Post office (Calle 1 btwn Avs 6 & 8)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Ciprotur (2770-9393; www.ecotourism.co.cr; Calle 4 btwn Avs 1 & 3; 7:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) Tourist office with information about the southern Pacific region.
Minae park service office (Sinac; 2771-3155; aclap@sinac.go.cr; Calle 2 btwn Avs 2 & 4; 8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri) Dispenses very basic information about Parque Nacional Chirripó. Here is where you can make reservations for the mountaintop hostel at Chirripó – Click here for details.
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Tours
Pieter Westra runs the highly recommended Aratinga Tours (2574-2319; www.aratinga-tours.com) and specializes in bird tours in his native Dutch, but he is fluent in English, Spanish and many dialects of bird. His website provides an excellent introduction to bird-watching in Costa Rica. He is based at Talari Mountain Lodge.
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Sleeping
Options in San Isidro proper serve as one-night crash pads of varying levels of style and sophistication, while options outside the town generally have more character and warrant a longer stay.
IN TOWN
Hotel Chirripó (2771-0529; Av 2 btwn Calles Central & 1; s/d from US$17/22; ) Popular with discerning budget travelers, here you’ll find bare, whitewashed rooms that are utterly barren but surprisingly dirt- and grime-free. A few flowering plants and a festive mural in the lobby brighten otherwise stark surroundings.
Hotel y Restaurante San Isidro (770 3444; Interamericana; s/d from US$24/34; ) This roadside motel does not have much character, but it is clean, comfortable and convenient for those travelers who have to do business in San Isidro. Everything you need – from bank to internet to pizza place – is right here in this complex, 2km south of the center.
Hotel Los Crestones (2770-1200, 2770-1500; www.hotelloscrestones.com/es/index.php; Calle Central at Av 14; s/d from US$36/48; ) This sharp motor court is decked with blooming flowerboxes and climbing vines outside, which is indeed a welcome sight to the road-weary traveler. Inside, functional rooms feature modern furnishings and fixtures, which are made all the better by the attentive staff that keep this place running efficiently.
Hotel Diamante Real (2770-6230; www.hoteldiamantereal.com; cnr Av 3 & Calle 4; standard/luxury r US$40/60; ) ‘Executive Elegance’ is the boast of this upscale business hotel, which is surprisingly swish for fairly understated San Isidro. The classy quarters are painted bright yellow and fitted with shiny black-lacquer furniture to complete the executive package.
Hotel del Sur (771 3033; http://hoteldelsur.net; standard/superior r US$53/75; ) This business complex has modern rooms with nondescript decor, several conference rooms and an upscale restaurant and bar. Located several kilometers south of the center, right off the highway, it’s good for guests who don’t want to leave the hotel.
AROUND SAN ISIDRO
Hotel La Princesa (2772-0324; www.laprincesahotel.com; San Rafael; d/q US$35/45; ) If sitting in the hot tub watching the sun drop behind the Talamanca sounds appealing, La Princesa is for you, especially if you’re looking for affordable luxury and quieter surrounds than downtown San Isidro. Eight sparkling rooms are decorated with wood furniture and bright linens, while lovely gardens are filled with blooms and birds. To reach the property, turn off the Interamericana 5km north of San Isidro in the barrio (district) of San Rafael.
Talari Mountain Lodge (2771-0341; www.talari.co.cr; Rivas; s/d US$49/72; ) This secluded mountain lodge exudes an incredible amount of charm, as does the Dutch-Tica couple that runs the place. They are ever-accommodating, also offering arrangements for treks to Chirripó and customized bird-watching tours – Pieter Westra of Aratinga Tours in San Isidro is their son. Accommodations are in simple wooden