Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [329]
Finca Ipe (no phone; www.fincaipe.com/conall.html; 2-bedroom house rental per week/month from US$300/900; ) Located approximately 20km west of San Isidro, this entirely self-sufficient and sustainable organic farm draws its name from the Ipe tree, the bark of which is used by the local indigenous population for medicine. Here a group of devoted staff and volunteers experiment with ways of alternative living in order be happier and healthier. If you want to catch a small glimpse of their long-term project, weekly or monthly house rentals give you a comfortable base right in the middle of the action. However, the best way to live the Ipe dream is to roll up your sleeves, bury your hands into some warm compost and volunteer your time and energy – US$400 a month gets you a dorm bed, clean sheets and all the seasonal produce you can stomach.
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Eating & Drinking
Taquería México Lindo (2771-8222; Av 2 btwn Calles Central & 1; dishes ₡1500-4000; 10am-8:30pm) For a welcome change of pace, stop by this taquería (taco shop) for tasty tacos as well as burritos, nachos and fajitas, not to mention homemade guacamole and several kinds of salsa. Photos of Mexico and festive piñatas set the ambience.
Restaurant/Bar La Cascada (2771-6479; cnr Calle 2 & Av 2; dishes ₡2500-4500; 11pm-late) Pleasant restaurant by day, happening bar by night. The well-stocked bar, massive TV screens showing music videos, and an extensive menu of pub grub attract plenty of local youth, who spend quality time getting to know the beer, the burgers and each other.
Kafe de la Casa (Av 3 btwn Calles 2 & 4; meals ₡3000-6500; 7am-8pm) Set in an old Tico house, this bohemian cafe features brightly painted rooms decorated with eclectic artwork, an open kitchen and shady garden seating. With a menu featuring excellent breakfasts, light lunches, gourmet dinners and plenty of coffee drinks, this funky place receives a stream of regulars.
Travelers watching their colones should head for inexpensive casados in the Mercado Central (Central Market; Av 4 btwn Calles Central & 2), while self-caterers can shop at the Supermercado Central (Av 6 btwn Calles Central & 2; 7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun), one block south.
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Getting There & Away
BUS
In San Isidro the local bus terminal is on Av 6 and serves nearby villages. Long-distance buses leave from various points near the Interamericana and are frequently packed, so buy tickets early.
From Tracopa Terminal
You will find Tracopa bus terminal (2771-0468) on the Interamericana, just southwest of Av Central.
Neily ₡3500; six hours; departs 4:45am, 7:30am, 12:30pm and 3pm.
Palmar Norte ₡2000; three hours; departs 4:45am, 7:30am, 12:30pm and 3pm.
Paso Canoas ₡3000; five hours; departs 8:30am, 10:30am, 2:30pm, 4pm, 7:30pm and 9pm.
San José ₡2100; three hours; departs 7:30am, 8am, 9:30am, 10:30am, 11am, 1:30pm, 4pm, 5:45pm and 7:30pm.
San Vito ₡2100; three hours; departs 5:30am and 2pm.
From Terminal Quepos
Terminal Quepos (2771-2550) is on the side street south of the Tracopa terminal.
Dominical ₡1800; 2½ hours; departs 7am, 8am, 1:30pm and 4pm.
Palmar Norte ₡2000; three hours; departs 6:30am and 3pm.
Palmar Norte/Puerto Jiménez ₡3000; five hours; departs 6:30am and 3pm.
Quepos ₡2000; three hours; departs 7am and 1:30pm.
Uvita ₡800; 1½ hours; departs 8:30am and 4pm.
From Other Bus Stops
The following buses originate in San Isidro.
Buenos Aires (Gafeso) ₡650; 1 hour; departs hourly 5am to 5pm from north of Terminal Quepos.
San Gerardo de Rivas, for Parque Nacional Chirripó ₡1800; 2½ hours; departs from Parque Central at 5am and from the local terminal on Av 6 at 2pm.
TAXI
A 4WD taxi to San Gerardo de Rivas will cost between ₡10,000 and ₡15,000. To arrange one, it’s best to inquire through your