Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [330]
Return to beginning of chapter
SAN GERARDO DE RIVAS
If you have plans to climb to the summit of Chirripó, then you’re in the right place – the tiny but tranquil town of San Gerardo de Rivas marks the entrance to the national park. Here, you can make reservations for accommodations within the park, pick up a few last-minutes supplies and – perhaps most important of all – get a good night’s rest, a decent meal and a hot shower before embarking on the trek.
DAY TRIPS AROUND SAN ISIDRO DE EL GENERAL
The following day trips are great ways to pass the time in El General:
Fudebiol Reserve (2771-4131; admission US$2, lodging per person incl 3 meals US$24; 8am-4pm Tue-Sun) North of El General, Fudebiol is a community reserve along the Río Quebradas. Its 750-hectare grounds include extensive hiking trails, some with rewarding lookout spots, a cooling pond and a butterfly farm (always a treat for kids). Fudebiol offers volunteer opportunities for travelers who want to live with a local family and work at the reserve; this educational facility also has lodging for visiting groups. For more information, contact Ciprotur.
Los Cusingos Bird Sanctuary (2200-5472; www.cct.or.cr; Quizarrá; adult/child US$10/5; 7am-4pm Tue-Sun) This sanctuary and museum are on the grounds of the farm that was once home to the great ornithologist Dr Alexander Skutch. Author of the bird-watcher’s bible, A Guide to the Birds of Costa Rica, Dr Skutch enjoyed a long and fruitful career studying the birds of the tropics. Much of his work took place at this 78-hectare reserve, which is now open to the public. The grounds are wonderful for watching wildlife, wandering the trails and meditating on the mysteries of nature, as Dr Skutch often did. The great scientist’s home is due to open as a museum dedicated to his life and work. To get to Los Cusingos, drive 8km north on the road to San Gerardo de Rivas. Turn right at Rivas and continue 5km through General Viejo, then turn east to Quizarrá. Aratinga Tours leads bird-watching walks here.
Rancho La Botija (2770-2146, 2770-2147; www.rancholabotija.com; Rivas; admission US$5, r incl meals from US$65; 8:30am-5pm Tue-Sun; ) A great option for families with kids, this is a working coffee and sugar farm. Trails traverse the grounds, and a daily guided hike departs at 9am and leads to the famous ‘Indian Rock,’ an ancient stone carved with pre-Columbian petroglyphs. There is entertainment for all ages, whether you paddle a kayak around the lake or a raft around the swimming pool. A restaurant and a few cabins are onsite. The rancho is 7km from the Interamericana along the road to San Gerardo de Rivas.
Although hikers are understandably keen to press on to the park as quickly as possible, San Gerardo has its own merits. The backdrop to this village scene is the rushing Río Chirripó and the rocky peak of the same name, which is characterized by breathtaking alpine scenery and home to bountiful birdlife. And of course, you don’t have to climb the mountain to be able to walk around with your head in the clouds – Cloudbridge Nature Preserve (below) is a perfect alternative for those who don’t have the time (or energy) to go all the way to the summit.
Return to beginning of chapter
Orientation & Information
The road to San Gerardo de Rivas winds its way 22km up the valley of the Río Chirripó. The road is paved for the first 10km or so; after the town of Rivas, however, it is a gravel road that is bumpy, narrow and steep. The ‘center’ of San Gerardo – as it is – consists merely of the soccer field and the pulpería (corner grocery store) opposite. Otherwise, there’s not much to this village – just the family-run farms and cabinas that are strung along this road.
The Chirripó ranger station (Sinac; 2200-5348; 6:30am-noon & 1-4:30pm) is located about 1km below the soccer field on the road from San Isidro. Stop by here (the earlier the better) to check for space and availability at Crestones Base Lodge, and to confirm and pay your fee before setting out.
Return to beginning of chapter
Sights & Activities