Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [331]
About 2km past the trailhead to Cerro Chirripó you will find the entrance to the mystical, magical Cloudbridge Nature Preserve (in USA 212-362-9391; www.cloudbridge.org; admission by donation; sunrise-sunset). Covering 182 hectares on the side of Cerro Chirripó, this private reserve is an ongoing reforestation and preservation project, spearheaded by New Yorkers Ian and Genevieve Giddy. A network of trails traverses part of the property, which is easy to explore independently; maps are available. Hike to two waterfalls, including the magnificent Catarata Pacifica close to the entrance. You are bound to see some amazing birdlife, including the vibrant emerald toucanet, the endangered black guan and many other cloud-forest species. Also, be sure to inquire if you are interested in volunteering on the reforestation program at Cloudbridge. You can drive up here if you have a 4WD; otherwise it’s a steep but rewarding hike.
If you need to recuperate after hiking, consider a soak in the thermal hot springs (8391-8107; Herradura; admission US$3; 7am-6pm) that are about 2km north of San Gerardo. Just above the ranger station the road forks; take the left fork and walk for about 1km on a paved road. Turn right and take the rickety suspension bridge over the river. A switchback trail will lead you another 1km to a house with a soda (inexpensive eatery), which is the entrance to the springs.
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Sleeping
The listings below are all situated along the narrow road that runs parallel to the river. The majority rent mountaineering equipment (sleeping bags, air mattresses, cooking stoves etc), though supplies are limited and quality varies considerably. Given that most Chirripó-bound travelers are of the shoestring mindset, accommodations in this part of the country are skewed towards the budget end.
HOSTELS
El Urán Hotel y Restaurante (2742-5003; www.hoteluran.com; dm US$10, s/d US$25/35; ) Just 50m below the trailhead, this no-nonsense youth hostel is something of an institution for hikers heading to/from Chirripó. Budget-friendly rooms are perfect for a restful snooze, while the onsite restaurant, grocery store and laundry facility all cater to the shoestring set.
Casa Mariposa (2742-5037; www.hotelcasamariposa.net; dm US$13, s/d US$17/30; ) This warm and welcoming backpacker hostel offers an excellent communal atmosphere that is conducive to picking up a few travel companions for the Chirripó trek. Carved out the side of the mountain, the close but cozy quarters have stone walls and plenty of character.
BUDGET
Cabinas y Restaurante El Descanso (2742-5061; campsites per person US$5, s/d US$10/30; ) This quaint and quiet homestead, run by the ever-accommodating Elizondo family, is an excellent budget option. Skip the cheaper, cell-like single rooms and spring for a brighter, more spacious unit on the 2nd floor, with bathroom and balcony. Transportation to the park entrance for trekkers is included in the rate.
Cabinas Roca Dura (2262-7218; campsites per person US$5, r US$15-35; ) Located in the center of town just opposite the soccer field, this hip hostelry is built right into the side of a giant boulder, lending a Flintstones ambience to the quarters. Wall murals brighten the smallest stone rooms, while pricier rooms have tree-trunk furniture and fixtures and views of forested hillsides.
Cabinas y Restaurante El Bosque (2742-5021; r per person US$10-15) Set in the midst of overflowing gardens, this family affair offers decent rooms without bathrooms, as well as newer, more spacious units with facilities. Some kitsch art by a local painter adorns the restaurant-bar, where you can enjoy great views of the forest and river from the outdoor deck.
Albergue de Montaña El Pelicano (8382-3000; r/cabins from US$20/40; ) About 300m below the ranger station, this simple but functional budget lodge has a collection of spartan but spotless rooms that overlook the river valley. The highlight of the property is the gallery of the owner, a late-blooming artist who sculpts whimsical wood pieces.
MIDRANGE & TOP