Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [333]
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ORIENTATION
The dry season (from late December to April) is the most popular time to visit Chirripó. February and March are the driest months, though it may still rain. On weekends, and especially during holidays, the park is crowded with Tico hiking groups, and the mountaintop hostel is often full. The park is closed in May, but the early months of the rainy season are still good for climbing as it usually doesn’t rain in the morning. In any season, temperatures can drop below freezing at night, so warm clothes (including hat and gloves), rainwear and a three-season sleeping bag are necessary. In exposed areas, high winds make it seem even colder. The ranger station in San Gerardo de Rivas is a good place to check on the weather conditions.
The maps available at the ranger station are fine for the main trails. However, more detailed topographical maps are available from the Instituto Geográfico Nacional in San José (Click here). Frustratingly, Chirripó lies at the corner of four separate 1:50,000-scale maps, so you need maps 3444 II San Isidro and 3544 III Dúrika to cover the area from the ranger station to the summit of Chirripó, and maps 3544 IV Fila Norte and 3444 I Cuerici to cover other peaks in the massif.
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INFORMATION
It is essential that you stop at the Chirripó ranger station (Sinac; 2200-5348; 6:30am-noon & 1-4:30pm) at least one day before you intend to climb Chirripó so that you can check availability at the mountaintop hostel and pay your park entry fee (US$15 for two days, plus US$10 for each additional day). Space at the hostel is limited, so it’s best to arrive early – first thing in the morning – to inquire about space on the following day. Even if you have a reservation, you must stop here the day before to confirm (bring your reservation and payment confirmation). You can also make arrangements here to hire a porter (about US$30 to US$50 for up to 15kg of luggage) or to store your luggage while you hike.
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WILDLIFE-WATCHING
The varying altitude means an amazing diversity of fauna in Parque Nacional Chirripó. Particularly famous for its extensive birdlife, the national park is home to several endangered species, including the harpy eagle and the resplendent quetzal (especially visible between March and May). Even besides these highlights, you might see highland birds including the three-wattled bellbird, black guan and tinamou. The Andean-like páramo guarantees volcano junco, sooty robin, slaty finch, large-footed finch and the endemic volcano hummingbird, which is found only in Costa Rica’s highlands.
In addition to the prolific birdlife, the park is also home to some unusual high-altitude reptiles, such as the green spiny lizard and the highland alligator lizard. Mammals include puma, Baird’s tapir, spider monkey, capuchin and – at higher elevations – Dice’s rabbit and the coyotes that feed on them.
Although spotting rarer animals is never a guaranteed proposition, here are few tips to maximize your chances: pumas stick to the savannah areas and use the trails at dawn and dusk to move about; Baird’s tapirs gravitate to various highland lagoons, mainly in the rainy season, so stake out the muddy edges at dawn or dusk if you see recent tracks; at nighttime, coyotes can be seen feeding at the rubbish bins near Crestones Base Lodge.
CHIRRIPÓ CHECKLIST
Costa Rica might be in the tropics, but Chirripó lies at some chilly altitudes. Don’t get caught without the necessities when hiking Costa Rica’s highest mountain. Check the Chirripó checklist before you head off:
water bottle (there is one water stop between the trailhead and the base camp)
food (including snacks for the hike)
warm jacket, gloves and hat (temperatures can