Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [334]
good sleeping bag (also available to rent at the lodge)
rain gear (even when it’s not raining, the summit is misty)
plastic bags (to protect your clothing and personal items from the rain)
sunblock (it may be chilly but the sun is powerful, and much of the route is not shaded)
flashlight (there’s no electricity for much of the evening at the mountaintop hostel)
compass and map (especially if you are planning to hike one of the lesser-used trails)
camera (photographic evidence that you reached the top!)
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HIKING
Climbing Chirripó
The park entrance is at San Gerardo de Rivas, which lies 1350m above sea level; from here the summit is 2.5km straight up! An easy-to-follow 16km trail leads all the way to the top and no technical climbing is required.
Allow seven to 14 hours to cover the 10km from the trailhead to the hostel, depending on how fit you are: the recommended departure time is 5am or 6am. The trailhead lies 50m beyond Albergue Urán in San Gerardo de Rivas (about 4km from the ranger station). The main gate is open from 4am to 10am to allow climbers to enter; no one is allowed to begin the ascent after 10am. Inside the park the trail is clearly signed at every kilometer.
The open-sided hut at Llano Bonito, halfway up, is a good place for a lunch break. There is shelter and water, but it is intended for emergency use, not overnight stays.
About 6km from the trailhead, the Monte Sin Fe (which translates as ‘Mountain Without Faith’; this climb is not for the faint of heart) is a preliminary crest that reaches 3200m. You then enjoy 2km with gravity in your favor, before making the 2km ascent to the Crestones Base Lodge at 3400m.
Reaching the hostel is the hardest part. From there the hike to the summit is about 6km on relatively flatter terrain (although the last 100m is very steep): allow at least two hours if you are fit, but carry a warm jacket, rain gear, water, snacks and a flashlight just in case. From the summit on a clear day, the vista stretches to both the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean. The deep-blue lakes and the plush-green hills carpet the Valle de las Morenas in the foreground. Readers recommend leaving the base camp at 3am to arrive in time to watch the sunrise from the summit.
A minimum of two days is needed to climb from the ranger station in San Gerardo to the summit and back, leaving no time for recuperation or exploration. It is definitely worthwhile to spend at least one extra day exploring the trails around the summit and/or the base lodge.
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Other Trails
Most trekkers follow the main trail to Chirripó and return the same way, but there are several other attractive destinations that are accessible by trails from the base camp. An alternative, longer route between the base lodge and the summit goes via Cerro Terbi (3760m), as well as Los Crestones, the moonlike rock formations that adorn many postcards. If you are hanging around for a few days, the glorious, grassy Sabana de los Leones is a popular destination that offers a stark contrast to the otherwise alpine scenery. Peak-baggers will want to visit Cerro Ventisqueros (3812m), which is also within a day’s walk of Crestones. These trails are fairly well maintained, but it’s worth inquiring about conditions before setting out.
For hardcore adventurers, an alternative route is to take a guided three- or four-day loop trek that begins in Herradura and spends a day or two traversing cloud forest and páramo on the slopes of Fila Urán. Hikers ascend Cerro Urán (3600m) before the final ascent of Chirripó and then descend through San Gerardo. This trip requires bush camping and a local guide must accompany you at all times. Costa Rica Trekking Adventures (2771-4582; www.chirripo.com) can make arrangements for this tour.
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TOURS
Most travelers prefer to access the park either independently or by hiring a local guide, though Costa Rica Trekking Adventures (2771-4582; www.chirripo.com) is highly recommended if you prefer