Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [340]
TAXI
Taxis with 4WD wait at the taxi stand southeast of the park. The fare from Neily to Paso Canoas is about ₡3000.
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PASO CANOAS
The main port of entry between Costa Rica and Panama is like most border outposts the world over – hectic, slightly seedy and completely devoid of charm. As you might imagine, most travelers check in and check out of Paso Canoas with little more than a passing glance at their passport stamp.
Báncredito (8am-4:30pm), near the Costa Rican Migración and Customs (6am-11pm), changes traveler’s checks and there is an ATM on the Visa Plus system near the border. Rates for converting excess colones into dollars are not good, but they will do in a pinch. Colones are accepted at the border, but are difficult to get rid of further into Panama.
The Instituto Panameño de Turismo (2727-6524; 6am-11pm), in the Panamanian immigration post, has information on travel to Panama. If you are arriving in Costa Rica, you’ll find sparse tourist information at the Costa Rican Tourist Information office in Costa Rican Migración and Customs.
The hotels in Paso Canoas aren’t particularly inviting, but Cabinas Romy (2732-2873; r from US$12; ) will do if necessary. Set around a pleasant courtyard, shiny rooms are decked with pastel-colored walls, wooden doors and floral bedspreads, which add a surprising bit of warmth to an otherwise drab town.
Tracopa buses leave for San José (₡5000, six hours) at 4am, 7:30am, 9am and 3pm. The Tracopa bus terminal (2732-2201), or window really, is north of the border post, on the east side of the main road. Sunday-afternoon buses are full of weekend shoppers, so buy tickets as early as possible. Buses for Neily (₡800, 30 minutes) leave from in front of the post office at least once an hour from 6am to 6pm. Taxis to Neily cost about ₡3000 and to the airport about ₡4000.
For more information on border-crossing specifics, see boxed text, opposite.
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WILSON BOTANICAL GARDEN
Wilson Botanical Garden (2773-4004; www.esintro.co.cr; Las Cruces Biological Station; admission US$8, guided tours half-/full-day US$18/24; 8am-4pm) lies about 6km south of San Vito. Covering 12 hectares and surrounded by 254 hectares of natural forest, this world-class garden was established by Robert and Catherine Wilson in 1963 and thereafter became internationally known for its collection.
In 1973 the area came under the auspices of the Organization for Tropical Studies (OTS) and today the well-maintained garden – part of Las Cruces Biological Station – holds more than 1000 genera of plants from about 200 families. As part of the OTS, the garden plays a scientific role as a research center. Species threatened with extinction are preserved here for possible reforestation in the future.
GETTING TO PANAMA
To David
On the Carretera Interamericana, Paso Canoas is the major border crossing with Panama. Although it is conveniently open 24 hours, it is crowded and confusing, especially during holiday periods, when hordes of Ticos arrive for shopping sprees. Note that it’s very easy to walk across the border without realizing it. No harm done, but don’t go too far without getting the proper stamps in your passport.
Costa Rican migración (immigration) is on the eastern side of the highway, north of the Tracopa bus terminal. After securing an exit visa, walk 300m east to the Panamanian immigration post, in the huge new yellow cement block. Here you can purchase the necessary tourist card (price varies by nationality) to enter Panama. You might be asked for an onward ticket and evidence of financial solvency (presenting a credit card usually does the trick). From here, dozens of minivans make the 90-minute trip to the city of David for a couple of dollars.
If you are in a private vehicle, you must have your car fumigated. Keep a copy of the fumigation ticket as roadside checkpoints often request it. Note that you cannot cross the border in a rental vehicle without having made prior arrangements.
To Río Sereno
East of San Vito (see below),