Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [341]
Migración (8am-6pm) is beside the police station. Once again, Panamanian immigration officials may require an onward ticket, and some foreigners will need to purchase a tourist card, which is sold at the bank, about 100m past the migración office.
There are no facilities on the Costa Rican side, but Río Serena in Panama has a decent hotel, a good pizza place and internet access. Once across the border, regular minibuses make the hour-long trip from Río Sereno to Volcán for a couple of dollars.
The gardens are well laid out, many of the plants are labeled and a trail map is available for self-guided walks, featuring exotic species such as orchids, bromeliads, palms and medicinal plants. The many ornamental varieties are beautiful, but the tours explain that they are useful too (eg the delicate cycad, used by Cabécar and Bribrí people as a treatment for snakebites). The gardens are very popular among bird-watchers, who may see scarlet-thighed dacni, silver-throated tanager, violaceous trogon, blue-headed parrot, violet sabre-wing hummingbird and turquoise cotinga.
If you want to stay overnight at the botanical gardens, make your reservations well in advance: facilities are often filled with researchers and students. Accommodations are in comfortable cabins (s/d incl meals US$88/164) in the midst of the gorgeous grounds. The rooms are simple, but they each have a balcony with an amazing view of the surrounding flora. Rates include entry to the gardens.
Buses between San Vito and Neily pass the entrance to the gardens. Take the bus that goes through Agua Buena, as buses that go through Cañas Gordas do not stop here. A taxi from San Vito to the gardens costs up to ₡2500.
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SAN VITO
Founded by Italian immigrants in the 1950s, San Vito is home to their descendants, who have retained their language and culture (not to mention their cuisine!). Of course, this is no small feat considering that this remote mountain town is located on the edge of Parque Internacional La Amistad, one of Central America’s last great frontier areas. As such, the town serves as a base for travelers in need of a hot meal and a good night’s sleep before descending into the deep wilderness.
In addition to the descendants of the original Italian founders, San Vito is also home to a large population of Guaymí people. The proximity of the town to the Reserva Indígena Guaymí de Coto Brus means that indigenous peoples pass through this region (Guaymí enclaves move back and forth undisturbed across the border with Panama). You might spot women in traditional clothing – long, solid-colored pollera dresses trimmed in contrasting hues – riding the bus or strolling the streets.
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Orientation
Tucked in between the Cordillera de Talamanca and the Fila Costeña, the Valle de Coto Brus offers some glorious geography, featuring the green, rolling hills of the coffee plantations backed by striking mountain facades, towering as much as 3350m above. The principal road leaves the Interamericana at Paso Real (near Curré) and follows the Río Jaba to San Vito, then continues south to rejoin the Interamericana at Neily. This winding mountain road (paved, but poorly maintained) offers spectacular scenery and a thrilling ride.
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Information
If you’re planning on heading to Parque Internacional La Amistad, San Vito is home to the Minae parks office (2773-3955; 9am-4pm), which can help you get your bearings before heading to the national park.
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Sights
About 3km south of town, Finca Cántaros (2773-3760; admission US$1, campsites per person US$6; 9:30am-5pm Tue-Sun; ) is a recreation center, campground and reforestation project.