Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [342]
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Sleeping & Eating
In addition to the following accommodations options, camping is also available at Finca Cántaros (see above).
RAINFOREST MEDICINE
Indigenous groups use tropical flowers, herbs and plants to treat all kinds of illnesses, from diabetes to a slipped disk. Here are a few of our favorites, courtesy of Paradise Tropical Garden (see below):
Most doctors treat stomach ulcers with antibiotics, but natural-medicine connoisseurs recommend the seeds from the spiny red annatto pod. Remove the seeds from the pod and wash away the red paste. You can eat the seeds straight from the pod, or dry them and grind them into your food.
The leaves of the avocado tree are said to cure high blood pressure. Just boil them for three minutes and let them steep for another three. Strain the murky drink and store it in the fridge. Apparently you should drink three cups a day, but beware: this brew is a diuretic.
If you suffer from a slipped disk, you might try this natural remedy, made from the bracts of the beautiful red plume ginger (Alpinia purpurata), which is bountiful in the rainforest. The bracts are the small leaves at the base of the bloom. Pull them off the stem of the ginger and stuff as many as you can fit into a small bottle, then fill the bottle with rubbing alcohol. Let it sit for three days, before rubbing this tincture onto your sore back. This remedy should ease your pain within a few days.
If you would like to learn more, pay a visit to the Paradise Tropical Garden (2789-8746; www.paradise-garden.travelland.biz; Río Claro; admission by donation; 6am-5pm), where Robert and Ella Beatham have created a wonderfully sensual introduction to tropical fruits and rainforest remedies that they call the ‘Tropical Fruit See, Smell, Taste & Touch Experience.’ Besides this interactive display, visitors also learn about the production of African palm oil and how it came to be the dominant crop of this region following the collapse of the banana industry. Robert and Ella are wonderful hosts, but you should call a day in advance if you want their full attention. The gardens are located just west of the town of Río Claro – follow the Interamericana for 1km, cross the Río Lagarto and turn right at the end of the bridge. From here, the garden is just 200m beyond.
Cabinas Rino (2773-3071; s/d from US$12/20; ) This 2nd-floor hotel is located above a block of shops on the main road, though it’s fairly well insulated from the street noise below. Basic rooms with whitewashed walls are reasonably clean and comfortable, and staff are polite and courteous.
Hotel El Ceibo (2773-3025; s/d from US$35/45; ) The best option in town – though fairly subdued by any account – is El Ceibo, conveniently located about 100m west of the main intersection. Here, you can sleep easy in simple but functional rooms (some with forest views) and dig into some truly authentic Italian pastas and wines.
Pizzería Restaurante Lilliana (pizzas ₡2000-4500; 10:30am-10pm) This great spot for Italian fare is proud to offer more than a dozen different kinds of pizza, all of which are made from scratch. The lovely mountain views and old-world environs make this a pleasant place to spend an afternoon.
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Getting There & Away
AIR
Alfa Romeo Aero Taxi (www.alfaromeoair.com) offers charter flights to San Vito from Puerto Jiménez and Golfito – prices vary according to the number of people and season. The airstrip is 1km east of town. Otherwise, the nearest airports with scheduled services are at Neily and Golfito.
BUS
The main Tracopa bus terminal (2773-3410) is at the northern end of the main street.
San Isidro ₡2100; three hours; departs 6:45am and 1:30pm.
San José ₡4200; seven