Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [352]
Some travelers, however, come away from these tours disappointed. The trails around San Pedrillo station attract many groups of people, which inhibit animal sightings. Furthermore, most tours arrive at the park well after sunrise, when activity in the rainforest has already quieted down.
Considering their hefty price tag, these tours are not necessarily the most rewarding way to see wildlife. The lodges strongly encourage their guests to take these tours (because they are obviously money-makers), but you have other options.
The easiest and most obvious one is the long coastal trail that heads south out of Agujitas and continues about 10km to the border of the national park. Indeed, a determined hiker could make it all the way to San Pedrillo ranger station on foot in three to four hours (make sure you reserve a spot at the ranger station if you intend to spend the night). From here, you can follow the coastal route south to wildlife-rich Sirena ranger station, which is undoubtedly the highlight of Corcovado.
Of course, if you don’t have the time (or the inclination) for this challenging trek, you can take comfort in the fact that most of the same species that inhabit the park are frequently spotted in the surrounding buffer zone. In fact, macaws, monkeys and other exotic species travel this trail as often as humans!
In addition to Corcovado, other popular day trips include nearby Playa San Josecito (Click here), a stunningly remote beach where you can slow down and soak up the beauty of the bay. If you want to head inland, you can also explore the Punta Río Claro Wildlife Refuge (also called the Marenco Rainforest Reserve; Click here), which can be accessed from the Río Claro trail or from Playa San Josecito.
When hiking without a guide, make sure that somebody knows when and where you are going. Should you get lost, try to find a river or stream, which you can follow to the ocean and then re-establish your bearings.
SWIMMING & SNORKELING
Isla del Caño is commonly considered the best place for snorkeling in this area. Lodges offer day trips to the island (US$75 to US$100 per person), which usually includes the park fee, snorkeling equipment and lunch, as well as a guided island hike in the afternoon. As is the case anywhere, the clarity of the water and the variety of the fish fluctuate according to water and weather conditions: it’s worth inquiring before dishing out the cash for a tour.
There are other opportunities for snorkeling on the coast between Agujitas and Corcovado. Playa San Josecito attracts scores of colorful species, which hide out among the coral reef and rocks. Another recommended spot is Playa Las Caletas, just in front of the Corcovado Adventures Tent Camp, and Playa Cocalito, a small, pretty beach that is near Agujitas and is pleasant for swimming and sunbathing.
SCUBA DIVING
About 20km west of Agujitas, Isla del Caño is one of Costa Rica’s top spots for diving, with attractions including intricate rock and coral formations and an amazing array of underwater life, teeming with colorful reef fish and incredible coral formations. Divers report that the schools of fish swimming overhead are often so dense that they block the sunlight from filtering down.
While the bay is rich with dive sites, a local highlight is undoubtedly the Bajo del Diablo (Devil’s Rock), an astonishing formation of submerged mountains that attracts an incredible variety of fish species, including jack, snapper, barracuda, puffer, parrotfish, moray eel and shark.
A two-tank dive runs from US$100 to US$150 depending on the spot, or you can do an open-water course for US$325 to US$400. Most of the upscale lodges in the area either have onsite dive centers or can arrange trips and courses through a neighboring lodge.
KAYAKING & CANOEING
A fantastic way to explore the region’s biodiversity is to paddle through it. The idyllic Río Agujitas attracts a huge variety of birdlife and lots of scaly