Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [353]
HORSEBACK RIDING
The coastal trail running between Agujitas and Corcovado is perfect for horseback riding, especially if you relish the idea of galloping wildly across deserted beaches while the waves crash below you. Los Planes is another popular destination for horseback riders, with ample opportunities for wildlife-watching along the way. Again, most of the upscale lodges in the area offer guided rides (from US$75), or can arrange trips through a neighboring lodge.
SPORTFISHING
Bahía Drake claims more than 40 fishing records, including sailfish, marlin, yellowfin tuna, wahoo, cubera snapper, mackerel and roosterfish. Fishing is excellent year-round, although the catch may vary according to the season. The peak season for tuna and marlin is from August to December. Sailfish are caught year-round, but experience a slowdown in May and June. Dorado and wahoo peak between May and August. Other species are abundant year-round, so you are virtually assured to reel in something. Many lodges can arrange fishing excursions, but you need to be prepared to pay heavily – half-/full-day excursions cost around US$600/1000.
DOLPHIN- & WHALE-WATCHING
As of 2006, swimming with dolphins and whales is illegal in Costa Rica. These measures are a result of an increase in tourist activity, often led by inexperienced guides who did not respect the best interests of these amazing creatures. However, dolphin- and whale-watching tours still provide opportunities to get up close and personal with these sea creatures – but only from the comfort and safety of the boat.
Bahía Drake is rife with marine life, including more than 25 species of dolphin and whale that pass through on their migrations throughout the year. This area is uniquely suited for whale-watching: humpback whales come from both the northern and the southern hemispheres to calve, resulting in the longest humpback whale season in the world. Humpbacks can be spotted in Bahía Drake year-round (except May), but the best months to see whales are late July through early November.
Several of the lodges are involved with programs that protect and preserve marine life in Bahía Drake, as well as programs that offer tourists a chance for a close encounter. Tours generally cost about US$100 per person.
The program at Drake Bay Wilderness Resort is highly recommended. Marine biologist Shawn Larkin has an infectious enthusiasm about marine mammals. He spends his time researching and filming dolphins and whales for his educational organization, the Costa Cetacea Research Institute (www.costacetacea.com).
CANOPY TOURS
Original Canopy Tour (8371-1598; admission US$60; 8am-4pm) at Hotel Jinetes de Osa has nine platforms, six cables and one 20m-observation deck from where you can get a new perspective on the rainforest.
JUNGLE NIGHTS
As night falls in the jungle, an amazing transformation takes place. That is, all the birds that were squawking all day long are suddenly quiet. And a whole new host of noises fills the air. The sounds of crickets, cicadas and other tropical bugs, awakening at dusk, are utterly overwhelming: the buzz emanates from all sides, vibrating throughout the forest. This is also when the aptly named vesper bats come out, seemingly flying in circles around your head.
As the darkness engulfs you, your other senses are heightened. That is the only way to explain the amazing otherworldly quality of the exotic night sounds, like the mournful coo of the pauraque calling his mate, or the scream of fighting coatis in the distance.
Most of the night tours in Bahía Drake focus on finding nocturnal critters such as river shrimps, frogs, spiders and insects. But many mammals are nocturnal: night tours around Sirena station in Corcovado (Click here) are the best way