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the underwater architecture. Snorkelers can investigate the coral and rock formations along the beach right in front of the ranger station. The water is much clearer here than along the mainland coast, though rough seas can cloud visibility. Fifteen different species of coral have been recorded, as well as threatened animal species that include the Panulirus lobster and the giant conch. The sheer numbers of fish attract dolphins and whales, which are frequently spotted swimming in outer waters. Hammerhead sharks, manta rays and sea turtles also inhabit these waters.

A steep but well-maintained trail leads inland from the ranger station. Once the trail plateaus, it is relatively flat, winding through evergreen forest to a lookout point at about 110m above sea level. These trees are primarily milk trees (also called ‘cow trees’ after the drinkable white latex they exude), believed to be the remains of an orchard planted by pre-Columbian indigenous inhabitants. Near the top of the ridge, there are several pre-Columbian granite spheres. Archaeologists speculate that the island may have been a ceremonial or burial site for the same indigenous tribes.

A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO PARQUE NACIONAL CORCOVADO

If you’re confused about the best way to access Parque Nacional Corcovado, don’t be. With a little prior planning, and a good idea as to the kind of trip you’re interested in, you’ll find yourself trekking through the rainforest, fording rivers and (hopefully!) spotting tapirs in no time at all!

For starters, it helps to know that there are two major centers where tourists tend to organize their expeditions: Bahía Drake and Puerto Jiménez. Both of these areas are home to hotels, lodges and tour operators where you can arrange your onward plans, hire guides and purchase supplies.

Each area has its own unique flair and tourist draws, though for the most part travelers choose Puerto Jiménez since it’s closer to the famed Sirena ranger station, where most of the wildlife action happens. However, staying in a remote jungle lodge along the coastline of Bahía Drake is truly one of the highlights of Osa.

If you start the trek from Bahía Drake, your entry into the park will most likely be at San Pedrillo ranger station, from where you easily trek to either Sirena or the more remote Los Planes ranger station. If you start the trek from Puerto Jiménez, your entry into the park will most likely be at either La Leona or Los Patos ranger station, both of which are good bases for accessing Sirena.

A third option for accessing the park is to fly direct to the airstrips in either Carate or Sirena. Click here for details on how to fly from Puerto Jiménez or Drake to Carate or Sirena. This option is certainly more expensive, but it can be a huge time-saver if you’re dealing with a time-crunched itinerary.

Be advised that if you’re planning on sleeping in Corcovado, you must register in advance with the park headquarters in Puerto Jiménez. This can be done either in person, by phone or often through your tour operator.

For information on the Bahía Drake route, Click here. For information on the Puerto Jiménez route, go to Click here. For information on the park itself, check out Click here.

Camping is prohibited, and there are no facilities except a ranger station by the landing beach. Most visitors arrive on tours arranged by the nearby lodges – admission is US$10 per person, plus a US$4 additional charge for divers, although this fee is usually included in your tour price.

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TO CORCOVADO VIA PUERTO JIMÉNEZ

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The second of two principal overland routes to Parque Nacional Corcovado, the Puerto Jiménez route on the eastern side of the peninsula is much more ‘developed.’ Of course, as this is Osa, developed means a single road and a sprinkling of villages along the coast of Golfo Dulce. The landscape is cattle pastures and rice fields, while the Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce protects much of the inland area. The largest settlement in the area is the town of Puerto Jiménez, which has transitioned from a