Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [360]
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RESERVA FORESTAL GOLFO DULCE
The northern shore of the Golfo Dulce is home to this vast forest reserve, which links Parque Nacional Corcovado to the Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas. This connecting corridor plays an important role in preserving the biodiversity of the peninsula, and allowing the wildlife to migrate to the mainland. Although much of the reserve is not easily accessible, there are several area lodges that are doing their part to preserve this natural resource by protecting their own little pieces of this wildlife wonderland.
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Sights & Activities
About 9km southeast of Rincón, the town of La Palma is the origin of the rough road that turns into the trail to the Los Patos ranger station. If you’re hiking across Corcovado, this will likely be the starting point or ending point of your trek. Before heading out, however, don’t miss the chance to get some sun at the beautiful sand and coral beach, known as Playa Blanca, at the east end of town.
The Reserva Indígena Guaymí (see boxed text) is southwest of La Palma, on the border of Parque Nacional Corcovado.
About 8km south of La Palma, the Tico-run Finca Köbö (8351-8576; www.fincakobo.com/finca.html; 3hr tour US$28) is a chocolate-lover’s dream come true (in fact köbö means ‘dream’ in Guaymí). The 50-hectare finca is dedicated to organic cultivation of fruits and vegetables and – the product of choice – cacao. Tours in English give a comprehensive overview of the life cycle of cacao plants and the production of chocolate (with degustation!). But, this finca (farm) isn’t just a finca – more than half of the territory is dedicated to protecting natural ecosystems, and experimenting with different methods of reforestation. To really experience the beauty and vision of this finca, you can stay in simple, comfortable teak cabins (s/d US$33/60, meals ₡4000-6500), and indulge in the opportunity to view the merits of the forest and the land through a farmer’s eyes.
Just before entering Puerto Jiménez, a turnoff in the road leads 16km to the hamlet of Río Nuevo, also in the forest reserve. A good trail network leads to spectacular mountain viewpoints, some with views of the gulf. Bird-watching is excellent in this area: you can expect to see the many species that you would find in Corcovado. Most of the following lodges offer day-long excursions in this area.
Fully customizable and utterly unique artists retreats can be arranged through Sombre de la Lapa (see right).
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Sleeping
Accommodations are also available at Finca Köbö.
Danta Corcovado Lodge (8378-9188, 8819-1860; www.dantacorcovado.net; cabins per person US$35) Conveniently located midway between Los Patos and La Palma, this low-key lodge is set on the finca of the congenial Sanchez family. Rustic wood cabins are painted in warm hues and furnished with handcrafted pieces. The highlight of the lodge, however, is the family’s traditional wood stove, which fires up some delicious, home-cooked meals.
Suital Lodge (8826-0342; www.suital.com; 15km east of Rincón; s/d/tr US$45/62/70; ) Lots of love has gone into the construction of this tiny clutch of cabinas on the northern shores of Golfo Dulce. It’s situated on 30 hectares of hilly, forested property (not a single tree has been felled), and guests can take advantage of a network of trails that winds through the property and down to the beach.
Bosque del Río Tigre (in Puerto Jiménez 2735-5062, 8824-1372, in USA 888-875-9453; www.osaadventures.com; Dos Brazos; s/d US$135/155, 4-day package per person from US$528; ) On the edge of the Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce, in the midst of a 13-hectare private reserve, this off-the-beaten-track ecolodge is a bird-watcher’s paradise. Four well-appointed guest rooms and one private, open-air cabaña have huge windows for viewing the feathered friends that come to visit. In case you want to brush up on your taxonomy, the lodge contains a library well stocked with wildlife