Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [361]
Villa Corcovado (8817-6969; www.villacorcovado.com; Rincón; s/d incl meals US$325/446; ) Rincón seems an unlikely setting for a top-of-the-line resort, but you’ll understand when you glimpse the 30 hectares of exquisite, unspoiled rainforest and the magnificent unobstructed vista of the Golfo Dulce. Eight light-filled, luxurious villas have private porches, wood-beamed ceilings and hardwood floors, not to mention classy, contemporary decor. Gourmet meals (included) feature organic produce straight from the garden; you can request yours packed in a picnic to enjoy on a nearby deserted beach.
Sombre de la Lapa (8378-3013, in USA 508-714-0622; www.costaricaartretreat.com; 1-week house rental low/high season US$1200/1600, 9-day artist retreat per person from US$1995; ) Further south along the coast toward Puerto Jiménez is this hidden gem in the jungle, a phenomenal fantasy-inspired artistic retreat that has to be seen to be believed. The pet project of two expat artists, Sombre de la Lapa is a vast private reserve complete with expansive hiking trails, natural springs, pre-Columbian burial grounds and abandoned gold mines. While it’s certainly an expensive proposition – albeit a bit cheaper if you can get six to eight friends together and fill all three bedrooms – the Sombre de la Lapa rental house was built entirely from naturally felled lumber, and is covered from floor to ceiling in artisanal masonry, hand-carved furnishing and original artwork. Not to be outdone by the main house, there is also a six-level, three-bedroom, two-bathroom tree house that wraps around an ancient guanacaste tree – the glass-bottom shower is not for the faint of heart! You’ll find Sombre de la Lapa at Agujas, off the main La Palma–Puerto Jiménez road before the Dos Brazos turnoff.
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Getting There & Away
The easiest way to travel the eastern coast of the peninsula is by car. Otherwise, frequent buses ply the sole road between La Palma and Puerto Jiménez (₡250, 30 minutes).
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PUERTO JIMÉNEZ
Puerto Jiménez is something of a natural wonder in itself. Sliced in half by the swampy, overgrown Quebrada Cacao, and flanked on one side by the emerald waters of the Golfo Dulce, this untamed environment is shared equally by local residents and wildlife. While walking through the dusty streets of Port Jim (as the gringos call it), it’s not unusual to spot scarlet macaws roosting on the soccer field, or white-faced capuchins swinging in the treetops adjacent to the main street.
Then again, it’s not too hard to understand why Puerto Jiménez is brimming with wildlife, mainly because the town lies on the edge of Parque Nacional Corcovado. As the preferred jumping-off point for travelers heading to the famed Sirena ranger station, the town is a great place to organize an expedition, stock up on supplies, eat a hot meal and get a good night’s rest before hitting the trails.
Indeed, Puerto Jiménez is known as the ‘big city’ in these parts, and here you’ll find the region’s largest and most diverse offering of hotels, restaurants and other tourist services. But don’t be mistaken. Port Jim is very much a close-knit community at its core, and its small-town charm and languid pace are surprisingly infectious. While it is understandably difficult to resist the pull of the deep jungle just beyond, consider putting the brakes on and lingering here for a few days – it will surely do you good.
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History
GUAYMÍ
The earliest inhabitants of Costa Rica’s far southern corner were the Guaymí, or Ngöbe, who migrated over generations from neighboring Panama. The Guaymí inhabit indigenous reserves in the Valle de Coto Brus, the Osa peninsula and southern Golfo Dulce, though they retain some semi-nomadic ways and are allowed to pass freely over the border into Panama. This occurs frequently during the coffee harvesting season, when many Guaymí travel to work on plantations.
The Guaymí have been able to preserve – to some degree – their customs and culture, and