Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [367]
EXPLORE MORE: CABO MATAPALO
Cabo Matapalo is an attractive destination for adventurers who wish to go it alone. All of the lodges have easy access to miles of trails, which you can explore without a guide. Indeed, you are likely to spot a good selection of wildlife just walking along the Cabo’s tree-lined dirt road.
A fantastic and easy hiking destination is King Louis, a magnificent, 28m-tall waterfall that can be accessed by a trail from Playa Matapalo. For ocean adventures, most of the lodges also offer kayaks, and the wild, beautiful beach – surrounding on three sides – is never more than a short walk away.
These pristine beaches around Cabo Matapalo offer three breaks that are putting this little peninsula on the surfing map. Playa Pan Dulce is a double point break. The inside break is a small wave that is ideal for beginners; experts can find the point on the outside break and ride it all the way into shore. Backwash Bay offers a nice beach break at low tide. The steep beach makes it excellent for long-boarding. Playa Matapalo also has an A-plus right break, with the biggest and best waves in the area. Conditions are usually good with a west swell; surfing season coincides with the rainy season, which is April to October.
So put your guidebook down for a day or – even better – a week. Follow your own path, catch your own wave and paddle up your own stream. It is bound to be an adventure more memorable than any one you’ll find along the well-trodden tourist trail.
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Sleeping
This area is off the grid, so many places do not have electricity around the clock or hot water. Reservations are recommended in the dry season (mid-November to the end of April). In the following listings high-season rates are quoted; prices include three meals, unless otherwise stated.
Ojo del Mar (2735-5531; www.ojodelmar.com; s/d from US$65/110; ) Tucked in amid the windswept beach and the lush jungle, this is a little plot of paradise. The four beautifully handcrafted bamboo bungalows are entirely open-air, allowing for all the natural sounds and scents to seep in (thatch roofs and mosquito nets provide protection from the elements). Solar power provides electricity in the casa grande (main house). Hammocks swing from the palms, while howler monkeys swing above. Rates include breakfast, but Niko – co-owner and cook – also serves an excellent, all-organic dinner. Look for this gem on the road to Carate, just before the Buena Esperanza Bar.
Ranchos Almendros (Kapu’s Place; 2735-5531; http://home.earthlink.net/~kapu/; Cabo Matapalo; r per person from US$75; ) This is the end of the line on Cabo Matapalo, where the road stops pretending and turns into a sandy beach path. The property includes three cozy cabañas that are equipped with solar power, large screened windows, full kitchens and garden showers. As per the name, ‘Almond Tree Ranch’ is part of an ongoing project dedicated to the reforestation of Indian almond trees to create habitat for the endangered scarlet macaw.
El Remanso Lodge (2735-5569; www.elremanso.com; road to Carate, 18km; s/d from US$180/300; ) Set on 56 hectares of rainforest, El Remanso is yet another tropical paradise. Constructed entirely from fallen tropical hardwoods, the secluded, spacious and sumptuous cabins have shiny wood floors and beautifully finished fixtures. Several units have folding French doors that open to unimpeded vistas of the foliage and the ocean in the distance.
Casa Bambú (www.casabambu.addr.com; Cabo Matapalo; 2-/3-/4-person cottages without meals US$195/205/215; ) This property on the pristine Playa Pan Dulce has three secluded casas. All have solar power, bamboo-and-hardwood construction and screen-free half-walls, allowing nothing to come between you and the ocean breezes (except maybe a mosquito net). Fully equipped kitchens and twice-weekly maid service make this an excellent