Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [368]
Bosque del Cabo (8381-4847, in Puerto Jiménez 2735-5206; www.bosquedelcabo.com; road to Carate, 18km; s/d from US$195/300; ) Nine quaint cabins are perched on a bluff here overlooking the ocean. Modern bathrooms, garden showers and personal hammocks in lush surroundings are the norm; deluxe cabins have added perks like king-sized beds, dressing rooms and wraparound porches. Explore the surrounding 200 hectares of rainforest at canopy level (by zip line or by suspension bridge) or at ground level (on miles of marked trails).
Lapa Ríos (2735-5130; www.laparios.com; road to Carate, 17km; s/d US$495/610; ) A few hundred meters beyond El Portón Blanco along the road to Carate, this top-notch all-inclusive wilderness resort combines the right amount of luxury with a rustic, tropical ambience. Scattered over the site are 16 spacious, thatch bungalows, all decked out with queen-sized beds, bamboo furniture, garden showers and private decks with panoramic views. An extensive trail system allows exploration of the 400-hectare reserve, while swimming, snorkeling and surfing are at your doorstep. As one of the select few hotels in Costa Rica to earn five leaves in the government-run Certified Sustainable Tourism program, Lapa Ríos also serves as a living classroom. If you need substantial proof that ecotourism can be a profitable and successful vehicle for ensuring wilderness preservation and empowering local communities with increased economic opportunities, look no further.
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Eating & Drinking
About 1km before El Portón Blanco, you’ll find the trendy, tropical Buena Esperanza Bar (2735-5531; road to Carate, Carbonera; meals ₡2500-5500; 9am-midnight; ), a festive, open-air tropical bar on the east side of the road. The limited menu includes lots of sandwiches and vegetarian items, plus a full bar. It’s Cabo Matapalo’s only place to eat or drink, and so often attracts a decent crowd of locals, resident expats and tourists.
Most hotels and lodges also have small shops that sell snacks and drinks. If you’re planning on hiking, be sure to stock up on lots of fresh water as well as your favorite form of trail mix – once you’re out in the woods or on the beach, options are decidedly limited.
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Getting There & Away
From the Puerto Jiménez–Carate road, the turnoff for Cabo Matapalo is on the left-hand side, through a white cement gate (called ‘El Portón Blanco’). If you are driving, a 4WD is highly recommended – even in the dry season – as roads frequently get washed out. Otherwise, the transport colectivo will drop you here; it passes by at about 6:30am and 2pm heading to Carate, and 10am and 5:30pm heading back to Jiménez. A taxi will come here from Port Jim for about ₡15,000.
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CARATE
About 45km south of Puerto Jiménez, the dirt road that rounds the peninsula comes to an abrupt dead end in the village of Carate, which is literally nothing more than an airstrip and a pulpería. Carate may not rate high on the list of Osa’s top tourist destinations, but it does serve as the southwestern gateway for anyone hiking into Sirena ranger station (Click here) in Parque Nacional Corcovado.
With that said, there are a handful of recommended wilderness lodges in the area, any of which can provide a good night’s rest for travelers heading to/from Corcovado. The ride from Puerto Jiménez to Carate is also an adventure in itself as the narrow, bumpy dirt road winds its way around dense rainforest, through gushing rivers and across windswept beaches. Birdlife and other wildlife are prolific along this stretch: keep your eyes peeled and hang on tight.
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Sleeping & Eating
Many places in Carate don’t have 24-hour electricity or hot water. Reservations are recommended in the dry season – communication is often through Puerto Jiménez, so messages may not be retrieved every