Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [369]
West of Carate is the national park, so if you’re planning on hiking into Corcovado, you must be self-sufficient from here on out. The pulpería is the last chance you have to stock up on food and water.
La Leona Eco-Lodge (2735-5704; www.laleonaecolodge.com; s/d from US$95/160; ) On the edge of Parque Nacional Corcovado 2km west of the pulpería, this friendly lodge offers all of the thrills of camping, without the hassles. Sixteen comfy forest-green tents are nestled between the palm trees, with decks facing the beach. All are fully screened and comfortably furnished; solar power provides electricity in the restaurant. Behind the accommodations, 30 hectares of virgin rainforest property offer opportunities for waterfall hiking, horseback riding and wildlife-watching.
Lookout Inn (2735-5431; www.lookout-inn.com; r per person from US$115; ) A deep wilderness retreat, Lookout Inn has comfortable quarters with mural-painted walls, hardwood floors, beautifully carved doors and unbeatable views. Accommodations are in ‘tiki huts,’ which are open-air, A-frame huts accessible only by a wooden walkway winding through the giant joba trees (prime bird-watching territory). Behind the inn, 360 steps – known as the ‘Stairway to Heaven’ – lead straight up the side of the mountain to four observation platforms and a waterfall trail. And here’s an interesting twist: if you don’t spot a scarlet macaw during your stay, your lodging is free!
Luna Lodge (8380-5036, in USA 888-409-8448; www.lunalodge.com; s/d US$120/210; ) A steep road goes through the Río Carate and up the valley to this enchanting mountain retreat, located about 2km north of the pulpería. Taking full advantage of the vista, the high-roofed, open-air restaurant is a marvelous place to indulge in the delights of the gardens and orchards on the grounds. Seven spacious, thatch-roof bungalows each have a huge garden shower and private patio. The open-air meditation studio is nothing less than inspirational.
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Getting There & Away
NatureAir (www.natureair.com) and Alfa Romeo Aero Taxi (www.alfaromeoair.com) offer charter flights. Prices are dependent on the number of passengers, so it’s best to try to organize a larger group if you’re considering this option.
Transportation Colectivo (₡3000, 2½ hours) departs Puerto Jiménez for Carate at 6am and 1:30pm, returning at 8:30am and 4pm. Note that the colectivo often fills up on its return trip to Puerto Jiménez, especially during the dry season. Arrive at least 30 minutes ahead of time or you might find yourself stranded.
Alternatively, catch a taxi from Puerto Jiménez (₡30,000). If you are driving, you’ll need a 4WD – even in the dry season as there are a couple of river crossings. Assuming you don’t have valuables in sight, you can leave your car at the pulpería (per night ₡2500) and hike to La Leona station (1½ hours), or at any of the tented camps listed above (with prior arrangements).
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PARQUE NACIONAL CORCOVADO
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Famously labeled by National Geographic as ‘the most biologically intense place on earth,’ this national park is the last great original tract of tropical rainforest in Pacific Central America. The bastion of biological diversity is home to Costa Rica’s largest population of scarlet macaws, as well as countless other endangered species, including Baird’s tapir, the giant anteater and the world’s largest bird of prey, the harpy eagle. Corcovado’s amazing biodiversity has long attracted a devoted stream of visitors who descend from Bahía Drake and Puerto Jiménez to explore the remote location and spy on a wide array of wildlife.
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HISTORY
TOP PICKS: ONLY IN CORCOVADO
While Costa Rica’s national parks can stretch from coast to coast, only in Corcovado can you do the following:
Spot all four of the country’s primate species in a single outing.
Be virtually guaranteed an up-close-and-personal encounter