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On the less-traveled San Pedrillo–Sirena trail, Playa Llorona is a popular nesting spot for marine turtles, including leatherback, olive ridley and green turtles. Nesting turtles attract ocelot, jaguar and other predators, though they are hard to spot.

Both coastal trails produce an endless pageant of birds. Pairs of scarlet macaws are guaranteed, as the tropical almond trees lining the coast are a favorite food. The sections along the beach shelter mangrove black hawk by the dozens and numerous waterbird species. The little rock island opposite Punta Salsipuedes serves as a roost for hundreds of birds, including the magnificent frigate bird and brown booby.

The Los Patos–Sirena trail attracts lowland rainforest birds such as great curassow, chestnut-mandibled toucan, fiery-billed aracari, turquoise cotinga and rufous piha; trogon, hummingbird and wood creeper are plentiful. Encounters with mixed flocks are common. Mammals are similar to those sighted on the coastal trails, but Los Patos is better for primates and white-lipped peccary.

For wildlife-watchers frustrated at the difficulty of seeing rainforest mammals, a stay at Sirena ranger station is a must. Topping the list, Baird’s tapirs are practically assured – that is a statement that can be made at few other places in the world. This endangered and distant relative of the rhinoceros is frequently spotted grazing along the airstrip after dusk. Sirena is excellent for other herbivores, particularly red brocket (especially on the Los Platos–Sirena trail) and both species of peccary. Agouti and tayra are also common.

The profusion of meat on the hoof means there are predators aplenty, but they are not nearly as confiding. Jaguars are occasionally sighted near the airstrip in the very early morning (midnight to 4am). While spotlighting at night you are more likely to see kinkajou and crab-eating skunk (especially at the mouth of the Río Sirena). Ocelot represents your best chance for observing a cat, but again, it’s difficult.

Corcovado is the only national park in Costa Rica with all four of the country’s primate species. Spider monkey, mantled howler and white-faced capuchin can be encountered anywhere, while the Los Platos–Sirena trail is best for the fourth and most endangered species, the Central American squirrel monkey. Sirena also has fair chances for the extremely hard‑to-find silky anteater, a nocturnal animal that frequents the beachside forests between the Río Claro and the station.

The Río Sirena is a popular spot for all kinds of heron, as well as waders such as ruddy turnstone and western sandpiper. However, you may be more excited to spot the other riverside regulars, which include the American crocodile, three-toed sloth and bull shark.

Here’s a good tip: the abundant banana trees along the coastal trails are not indigenous to Costa Rica (bananas are Asian in origin), but they serve as huge magnets for wildlife. In addition to the more obvious visitors, namely monkeys, there are a few other interesting species to be on the lookout for. For instance, hermit crabs dine on the fallen fruit, while rufous-tailed hummingbirds build their nest under banana leaves. Thomas’ fruit-eating bats also snip the supporting veins of the leaves to create their awning-like tents.

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Hiking

Paths are primitive and the hiking is hot, humid and insect-ridden, but the challenge of the trek and the interaction with wildlife at Corcovado are thrilling. Hiring a local guide is highly recommended. Obviously, your guide will know the trails well, thus avoiding the unmitigated disaster of getting lost; furthermore, he or she will have a keen eye for spotting and identifying wildlife.

Otherwise, travel in a small group. Bring a compass, as it is impossible to navigate using the sun or stars underneath the rainforest canopy. Carry plenty of food, water and insect repellent. And always verify your route with the rangers before you depart.