Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [372]
CORCOVADO WILDLIFE
As one of the most biologically intense places on earth, Parque Nacional Corcovado is absolutely teeming with wildlife. Just to get you excited for the trek ahead, we’ve prepared a few top picks for the best (and worst) of Corcovado wildlife.
Wish List
Jaguar These elusive felines sit at the top of nearly everybody’s rainforest wish list, though you’re going to need an incredible amount of luck to spot one in the wild.
Ocelot Of Corcovado’s feline predators, these medium-sized cats are the most spotted – they’re largely ground-lovers, and tend to stick to the trails.
Tapir You don’t have to wish very hard to spot these lumbering giants at Sirena station, though their commonness in Corcovado isn’t a true reflection of the general population figure.
No-Wish List
Fer-de-lance Known as a terciopelo in Costa Rica, the true bushmaster of Corcovado is not to be toyed with.
Bullet ant Sitting alongside the tarantula hawk wasp as one of most pain-inducing biting insects, these enormous ants are best given a wide berth and a lot of respect.
Ticks Approaching megalithic sizes in Corcovado; it’s inevitable that you’re going to pick up a few dozen, but hopefully they’ll stick to where the sun does shine.
Maybe-Yes, Maybe-No Wish List
Crocodile One of nature’s oldest and most efficient predators, the crocodile is an amazing sight to behold, given that you’re on the land and they’re mostly in the water.
Peccary Something akin to a tropical boar, these surly swine are best observed from the lofty heights of a tree, allowing you to view their antics from a safe distance.
Army ant The infamous insect army can be heard crunching its way through the forest, so you’d be wise to give them the right of way.
The most popular route traverses the park from Los Patos to Sirena, then exits the park at La Leona (or vice versa). This allows hikers to begin and end their journey in or near Puerto Jiménez, offering easy access to La Leona and Los Patos. The trek between Sirena and San Pedrillo is more difficult, both physically and logistically. The travel times listed are conservative: fit hikers with light packs can move faster, unless you spend a lot of time bird-watching or taking photos.
Hiking is best in the dry season (from December to April), when there is still regular rain but all of the trails are open. It’s still muddy, but you won’t sink quite as deep.
SIRENA TO SAN PEDRILLO/LOS PLANES
The route between Sirena and San Pedrillo/Los Planes is the longest trail in Corcovado. The vast majority of this hike is along the beach, which means loose sand and little shade – grueling, especially with a heavy pack. One local guide recommends starting this hike at night in order to avoid the hot sun.
Another tricky factor is the three river crossings, which become very difficult or impossible at high tide. As a result, the time of departure from Sirena station depends on the tides; the recommended departure time is about two hours before low tide.
The first river crossing – Río Sirena – is about 1km north of Sirena. The largest river on the hike, it is the neighborhood hangout for sharks and crocodiles, and it can sometimes spawn swift currents, so cross with extreme caution. The final river, the cascading Río Llorona, marks the end of the beach trail, and lies just before the trail splits and diverges.
Hikers generally prefer to turn left and follow the coast to San Pedrillo, a route that covers 23km in 10 to 15 hours, and is awash with stunning beachside scenery. Following the coastline is also easier to navigate and ultimately safer than heading inland, though the Los Planes route is most definitely less trafficked and more wild. Detouring inland, however, will add a couple of kilometers (and hours) to your hike.
This trail is only open from December through April, since heavy rains can make the Río Sirena impassable. Due to the complexity of this route, taking a guide is strongly recommended, particularly if you’re heading to Los Planes.
SIRENA TO LA LEONA
The 16km hike from Sirena to La Leona