Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [380]
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PARQUE NACIONAL PIEDRAS BLANCAS
Formerly known as Parque Nacional Esquinas, this national park was established in 1992 as an extension of Corcovado. Currently, Piedras Blancas or ‘White Rocks’ covers an area of 120 sq km of undisturbed tropical primary rainforest, as well as 20 sq km of secondary forests, pasture land and coastal cliffs and beaches.
As one of the last remaining stretches of lowland rainforest on the Pacific, Piedras Blancas is also home to a vast array of flora and fauna. According to a study conducted at the biological station at Gamba, the biodiversity of trees in Piedras Blancas is the densest in all of Costa Rica, even surpassing Corcovado.
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Orientation & Information
Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas borders the Refugio Nacional Fauna Silvestre Golfito at its east. At its west, the Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce connects Piedras Blancas with Corcovado, forming an important biological corridor for resident wildlife, especially large mammals and predators that cover vast areas. Unfortunately, the forests around Rincón are threatened by illegal logging, jeopardizing this route.
Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas does not yet have facilities for visitors. However, it is possible to access the park from the Esquinas Rainforest Lodge in Gamba, as well as any of the coastal lodges lining the beaches north of Golfito.
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Wildlife-Watching
Because Piedras Blancas is so remote and so little-visited, it is the site for several ongoing animal projects, including the reintroduction of scarlet macaws with the hopes of establishing a self-sustaining population, as well as the re-integration of wild cats like ocelot and margay, which were confiscated from private homes. Look for all of the wildlife that you might see in Corcovado: all five big cats and all four species of monkey, herds of collared and white-lipped peccary, crocodiles, various species of poison-dart frogs (including the endemic Golfo Dulce poison-dart frog) and more than 330 species of bird.
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Sleeping
Esquinas Rainforest Lodge (2741-8001; www.esquinaslodge.com; Gamba; s/d/tr incl meals US$149/226/279; ) This lodge was founded by the nonprofit Rainforest for the Austrians, which was also vital in the establishment of Piedras Blancas as a national park. Now, surrounded by the primary and secondary rainforest of the park, Esquinas is integrally connected with the community of Gamba, employing local workers and reinvesting profits in community projects. Accommodations at Esquinas Lodge are in spacious, high-ceilinged cabins with ceiling fans and private porches. The lodge’s extensive grounds comprise a network of well-marked trails and a welcoming stream-fed pool. Gamba is 8km north of Golfito and 6km south of the Interamericana.
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Getting There & Away
Piedras Blancas is best accessed from the Esquinas Rainforest Lodge, which has an extensive trail network onsite and can easily arrange guided hikes deeper into the park. If you don’t have your own transportation, any bus heading north from Golfito can drop you off at the lodge.
If you’re staying at any of the coastal lodges north of Golfito (Click here), you can inquire about transportation to/from the park as well as guided hikes into the interior.
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PLAYAS SAN JOSECITO, NICUESA & CATIVO
Idyllic deserted beaches, backed by the pristine rainforest of Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas, define the northeastern shore of the Golfo Dulce. The appeal of this area is only enhanced by its inaccessibility: part of the charm is that very few people make it to this untouched corner of Costa Rica. If you’re looking for a romantic retreat or a secluded getaway, all of the lodges along this stretch of coastline are completely isolated and serve as perfect spots for quiet reflection.
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Sights
CASA DE ORQUÍDEAS
This private botanical garden (Playa San Josecito; admission