• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

By Root 1369 0

& tour US$8; tours 8:30am Sat-Thu), surrounded on three sides by primary rainforest, is a real-life Eden. The garden’s plants have been lovingly collected and tended by Ron and Trudy MacAllister, who have lived in this remote region since the 1970s. Self-taught botanists, they’ve amassed a wonderful collection of tropical fruit trees, bromeliads, cycads, palms, heliconias, ornamental plants and more than 100 varieties of orchid, after which their garden is named. The two-hour guided tours stimulate all of the senses: chew on a ‘magic’ seed that makes lemons taste sweet; smell vanilla beans; see insects trapped in bromeliad pools; or touch ginger in its flower.

Casa de Orquídeas is at the west end of Playa San Josecito and can be reached from the lodges on that beach by foot. Otherwise, it’s accessible only by boat; inquire at your accommodations to make these arrangements.

Return to beginning of chapter

Activities

The beaches along this stretch are excellent for swimming, snorkeling and sunning. Lodges also provide kayaks for maritime exploration. Hiking and wildlife-watching opportunities are virtually unlimited, as the lodges provide direct access to the wilds of Piedras Blancas. Miles of trails lead to secluded beaches, cascading waterfalls and other undiscovered attractions.

Return to beginning of chapter

Sleeping

If you’re planning on staying at any of the lodges listed here, advanced reservations via the internet are strongly recommended, especially since it can be difficult to contact them by phone.

All of these lodges are extremely isolated and are accessible only by boat – you can expect a beach landing, so make sure you’re wearing the right kind of shoes! Prices include three meals per day and transportation to/from either Golfito or Puerto Jiménez.

Dolphin Quest (2775-8630, 2775-0373; www.dolphinquestcostarica.com; Playa San Josecito; s/d campsites US$30/55, cabins US$60/100, houses US$70/120) This jungle lodge offers as much privacy as a mile of beach and 280 hectares of mountainous rainforest can offer. Three round, thatch-roof cabins and one large house are spread out around two hectares of landscaped grounds. Meals – featuring many organic ingredients from the garden – are served communally in an open-air pavilion near the shore. Access to many miles of trails is free after an introductory tour outlining the beauties (and dangers) of the forest.

Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge (2735-5237, in USA 866-348-7610; www.nicuesalodge.com; Playa Nicuesa; s/d from US$225/380) Nestled into a 65-hectare private rainforest reserve north of Casa de Orquídeas, this lodge is barely visible from the water (though its dock gives it away). The rustic, natural accommodations are beautifully decorated with canopied beds and indigenous textile spreads; private hot-water bathrooms have garden showers. Meals are served in a thatched rancho featuring a sparkling, polished wood bar. Electricity is provided by solar power, but the lodge usually uses candlelight to conserve energy and enhance the romantic atmosphere.

Golfo Dulce Lodge (8821-5398; www.golfodulcelodge.com; Playa San Josecito; standard/deluxe 4-day package per person from US$345/570; ) Set back from the rocky beach, this Swiss-owned place is on the edge of a 275-hectare property, much of which is primary rainforest. The owners are clued in about local flora and fauna, dedicating their efforts to a nearby wildcat rehabilitation project. The five deluxe units are individual wooden cabins, each with a large veranda containing a rocking chair and hammock; three standard adjoining rooms with smaller verandas surround the spring-fed pool.

Return to beginning of chapter

Getting There & Away

All of the lodges offer boat transportation from Puerto Jiménez and/or Golfito with prior arrangements, though you can always grab a water taxi if plans go awry.

Return to beginning of chapter

ZANCUDO

Occupying a slender finger of land that juts into the Golfo Dulce, the tiny village of Zancudo is about as laid-back a beach destination as you’ll find in Costa Rica. On the