Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [382]
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Orientation & Information
Zancudo consists of one dirt road, which leads from the boat dock in the north, past the lodges that are strung along the shore, and out of town south toward Pavones. There is no bank in town and very few places accept credit cards, so bring your cash from Golfito.
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Activities
The main activities at Zancudo are undoubtedly swinging on hammocks, strolling on the beach and swimming in the aqua-blue waters of the Golfo Dulce. Here, the surf is gentle, and at night the water sometimes sparkles with bioluminescence – tiny phosphorescent marine plants and plankton that light up if you sweep a hand through the water. The effect is like underwater fireflies.
The mangrove swamps offer plenty of opportunities for exploration: birdlife is prolific, while other animals such as crocodile, caiman, monkey and sloth are also frequently spotted. The boat ride from Golfito gives a glimpse of these waters, but you can also paddle them yourself: rent kayaks from any of the accommodations listings following.
Zancudo is a base for inshore and offshore fishing, river fishing (mangrove snapper, snook and corbina) and fly-fishing. The best sportfishing is from December to May for sailfish and May to September for snook, though many species bite year-round. Trips are best organized through the Zancudo Lodge (see right).
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Sleeping & Eating
Cabinas Sol y Mar (2776-0014; www.zancudo.com; campsites per person US$3, cabins US$25-50; ) This popular place offers various budget lodging options: smallish economy dwellings that are further from the water, larger standard units with a shared terrace overlooking the beach, and private, deluxe units with fancy tile showers and unobstructed ocean views. Even if you’re not staying here, the open-air restaurant and thatched bar is a Zancudo favorite.
Cabinas Los Cocos (2776-0012; www.loscocos.com; cabins US$60; ) This unique beachfront lodge is home to two historic cabins that used to be banana-company homes in Palmar but were transported to Zancudo, reassembled and completely refurbished. The other two more spacious cabins are also charming, with loft sleeping areas under palm-frond roofs.
Oceano (2776-0921; http://bestcostaricavacations.com; r US$79; ) With its back to the beach, this friendly little Canadian-run inn has just two rooms, both spacious and airy with wood-beamed ceilings, tile bathrooms and quaint details such as throw pillows and folk art. The open-air restaurant is also inviting for dinner or drinks, especially if the sea has been kind to the local fishermen.
Playa Zancudo Bed and Breakfast (2776-0006; www.playazancudobedandbreakfast.com; r from US$80; ) This US-run B&B also has just two rooms in a vaulted plantation-style house adorned with rich hardwoods and accentuated by sweeping verandas. Another highly personable option; guests receive intimate and attentive service throughout their stay.
Zancudo Lodge (2776-0008; www.thezancudolodge.com; 4-day all-inclusive s/d US$4195/6390; ) This newly refurbished lodge is completely dedicated to sportfishing, and offers multiday packages that include everything from boat charters and equipment rental to all-you-can-eat meals and a 24/7 open bar. While nonanglers might feel a bit out of place here, the Zancudo Lodge is regarded as one of the definitive fishing spots in Golfo Dulce, and your surest bet for hooking the big one.
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Getting There & Away
BOAT
The boat dock is near the north end of the beach on the inland, estuary side. A water taxi to Golfito (₡2500, 45 minutes)