Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [383]
BUS
A bus to Neily leaves from the pulpería near the dock at 5:30am (₡2500, three hours). The bus for Golfito (₡2500) leaves at 5am for the three-hour trip, with a ferry transfer at the Río Coto Colorado. Service is erratic in the wet season, so inquire before setting out.
CAR
It’s possible to drive to Zancudo by taking the road south of Río Claro for about 10km. Turn left at the Rodeo Bar and go another 10km to the Río Coto Colorado ferry, which carries three vehicles (₡1000 per car) and runs all day except during the lowest tides. From there, 30km of dirt road gets you to Zancudo. To get to Pavones, take a right at the first major intersection, instead of a left. A 4WD is necessary in the rainy season.
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PAVONES
Home to what is reportedly the longest left-hand surf break on the planet, Pavones is a legendary destination for surfers the world over. As this is Costa Rica’s southernmost point, you’ll need to work hard to get down here. However, the journey is an adventure in its own right, especially since the best months for surfing coincide with the rainy season (think river crossings!).
Although the village remains relatively off the beaten path, both foreigners and Ticos are transforming Pavones from a relative backwater into a hip and happening hot spot. Fortunately, development is progressing slowly and sustainably, which means that the palm-lined streets are still not paved, the pace of life is slow and the overall atmosphere remains tranquil.
MARSHALL & ANGELA MCCARTHY ON THE FUTURE OF GOLFO DULCE
Marshall and Angela McCarthy, the owners and managers of Cabinas La Ponderosa in Pavones (Click here), have spent 19 and 11 years, respectively, living in Golfo Dulce. Over a hearty breakfast of eggs and potatoes, Marshall and Angela shared their thoughts on the past, present and future of their adopted home.
What was it you found about this remote corner of the country that made you both want to settle down in Golfo Dulce? Marshall: Having grown up in the cities throughout North and South America, I immediately fell in love with the nature here. There is so much open space here, and instead of clutter and congestion you have empty beaches and thick jungles. When I first arrived, Costa Rica was off the tourist map, and I could have easily chosen any part of the country to settle in. However, I chose Golfo Dulce because it was, and still is, the most virgin corner of the country.
Angela: I’ve traveled throughout all of Central America, but I chose Costa Rica specifically because everything here is so accessible. Even in a place as remote as Golfo Dulce, you literally have the beach, the mountains and the rainforest on your doorstep. Also, I just love the way this place smells! After the rains have fallen, the air here is heavy with the scent of the jungle. It’s difficult to describe, but once you spend time here, it’s impossible to forget.
Why do you think it is that Golfo Dulce has been spared from hasty development? Angela: People have always been attracted to Golfo Dulce because of its nature, and fortunately the local government is well attuned to this reality. In fact, tourism officials are actually marketing the pristine beauty of the region, which is attracting the right types of foreign investment. Here in Golfo Dulce, the product is the environment, so the impetus is for developers is to keep everything green.
Marshall: Because the local government has a strict regulatory and development plan, this municipality is growing a lot slower than others. As a direct result, wealthy foreigners who want to come down here and build an enormous condo project or a sprawling resort hotel face intense scrutiny, and eventually decide to invest elsewhere.
Do you think that Golfo Dulce attracts a certain type of person? Marshall: Simply put, Golfo Dulce is old Costa