Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [409]
Most visitors, naturally, come to watch sea turtles lay eggs on the area’s wild, black-sand beaches. The area attracts four of the world’s eight species of sea turtle – making it a crucial habitat for these massive reptiles. It will come as little surprise, then, that these hatching grounds gave birth to the sea turtle–conservation movement. The Caribbean Conservation Corporation, the first program of its kind in the world, has continuously monitored turtle populations here since 1955. Today, green sea turtles are increasing in numbers along this coast, but the leatherback and hawksbill are in decline (see boxed text).
The area, however, is more than just turtles: you’ll find sloths and howler monkeys in the treetops, tiny frogs and green iguanas scurrying among buttress roots, and mighty tarpon and endangered manatee swimming in the waters. Tortuguero is thick with wildlife.
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Orientation & Information
The park is accessible from the village of Tortuguero (the most common entry point) and Parismina. Park headquarters is at Cuatro Esquinas (2709-8086; admission US$10; 5:30am-6pm with breaks for breakfast & lunch), just south of Tortuguero village. This is an unusually helpful ranger station, with maps, information and access to a 2km-loop nature trail. Wear boots: it’s muddy, even in the dry season.
Jalova Station (6am-6pm) is on the canal at the south entrance to the national park, accessible from Parismina by boat. Tour boats from Moín often stop here for a picnic; you will find a short nature trail, bathroom, drinking water and rudimentary camping facilities that may or may not be open to campers (and may or may not be flooded).
There is no dry season, although it does rain less in February, March and October.
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Activities
HIKING
Behind Cuatro Esquinas station, El Gavilán Land Trail is the only public trail through the park that is on solid ground. Visitors can hike the muddy, 2km loop that traverses the tropical humid forest and follows a stretch of beach. Green parrots and several species of monkeys are commonly sighted here. The short trail is well marked and does not require a guide.
BOATING
Four aquatic trails wind their way through Parque Nacional Tortuguero, inviting waterborne exploration. Río Tortuguero acts as the entrance way to the network of trails. This wide, beautiful river is often covered with water lilies and frequented by aquatic birds such as heron (especially the great blue heron and the night heron), kingfisher and anhinga –the latter of which is known as the snakebird for the way its slim, winding neck pokes out of the water when it swims.
Caño Chiquero and Canõ Mora are two narrower waterways with good wildlife-spotting opportunities. According to park regulation, only kayaks, canoes and silent electric boats are allowed in these areas (a rule that is constantly violated by many area tour companies and lodges). Caño Chiquero is thick with vegetation, especially red guácimo trees and epiphytes. Black turtles and green iguana like to hang out here. Caño Mora is about 3km long but only 10m wide, so it feels like it’s straight out of The Jungle Book. Caño Harold is actually an artificially constructed canal, but that doesn’t stop the creatures – such as Jesus Christ lizards and caiman – from inhabiting its tranquil waters.
Canoe rental and boat tours are available in Tortuguero village.
TURTLE-WATCHING
Most female turtles share a nesting instinct that drives them to return to the beach of their birth, or natal beach, in order to lay their eggs. (Only the leatherback returns to a more general region, instead of a specific beach.) During their lifetimes, they will usually nest every two to three years, and depending on the species, may come ashore to lay eggs 10 times in one season. Often, a turtle’s ability to successfully reproduce depends on the ecological health of this original habitat.
To lay her eggs, the female turtle digs