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a perfect cylindrical cavity in the sand using her flippers, and then lays 80 to 120 eggs. She diligently covers the nest with sand to protect the eggs, and she may even create a false nest in another location in an attempt to confuse predators. She then makes her way back to sea – after which the eggs are on their own. Incubation ranges from 45 to 70 days, after which hatchlings – no bigger than the size of your palm – break out of their shells using a caruncle, or temporary tooth. They crawl to the ocean in small groups, moving as quickly as possible to avoid dehydration and predators. Once they reach the surf, they must swim for at least 24 hours to get to deeper water, away from land-based predators.

Because of the sensitive nature of the habitat and the critically endangered status of some species, tours of this activity are highly regulated. So as to not alarm turtles as they come to shore (a frightened turtle will return to the ocean and dump her eggs), tour groups gather in shelter sites close to the beach and a spotter relays a turtle’s location via radio once she has safely crossed the high-tide mark and built her nest. At this time, visitors can then go to the beach and watch the turtle lay her eggs, cover her nest and return to the ocean. Seeing a turtle is not guaranteed. By law, tours can only take place between 8am and midnight. Some guides will offer tours after midnight; these are illegal.

Visitors should wear closed-toe shoes and rain gear. Tours cost US$20 (a flat rate established by the village), which includes the purchase of a US$4 sticker that pays for the patrols that help protect the nesting sites from scavengers and looters. Nesting season runs from March to October, with July and August being prime time. The next best time is April, when leatherback turtles nest in small numbers. Flashlights and cameras (of all kinds) are not allowed on the beach. (See boxed text, for more about this.)

For information about volunteering, see boxed text.

OTHER WILDLIFE-WATCHING

More than 300 bird species, both resident and migratory, have been recorded in Tortuguero – making the park a bird-watchers paradise. Due to the wet habitat, the park is especially rich in waders – including egrets, jacanas, 14 different types of heron, as well as species such as kingfishers, toucans and the great curassow (a type of jungle peacock known locally as the pavón). The great green macaw is a highlight – and is most common from December to April, when the almond trees are fruiting. In September and October, look for flocks of migratory species such as eastern kingbird, barn swallows and purple martins. The Caribbean Conservation Corporation conducts a biannual monitoring program, in which volunteers can help scientists take inventory of local and migratory species.

DOING TIME FOR THE TURTLES

There are many opportunities to volunteer your time to help protect sea turtles – and the many other creatures that inhabit the Caribbean coast. In most cases, organizations require a minimum commitment of a week. A few options:

Asociación Salvemos Las Tortugas de Parismina (2798-2220; www.costaricaturtles.org) A small, locally run organization coordinates important conservation activities in Parismina.

Asociación Widecast (in San José 8818-2543; www.latinamericanseaturtles.org, www.widecast.org) A grassroots NGO has volunteer opportunities in Cahuita (Click here) and Gandoca (Click here), on the southern coast.

Canadian Organization for Tropical Education and Rainforest Conservation (2709-8052, in Canada 905-831 8809; www.coterc.org) A reputable Canadian not-for-profit has various volunteer opportunities at its research station in Tortuguero (Click here).

Caribbean Conservation Corporation (2709-8091, in USA 800-678-7853; www.cccturtle.org) A renowned long-time organization that has myriad volunteer options at its research station in Tortuguero (Click here).

Certain species of mammals are particularly evident in Tortuguero, especially mantled howler monkeys, the Central American spider monkey (the most graceful of the local