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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [411]

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monkey species) and white-faced capuchin. If you’ve got a good pair of binoculars (and a good guide), you can usually see both two- and three-toed sloth. In addition, normally shy neo-tropical river otters are reasonably habituated to boats. Harder to spot are timid West Indian manatees. The park is also home to big cats such as jaguars and ocelots – but these are savvy, nocturnal animals that can be difficult to see under the best circumstances.

Most wildlife-watching tours are done by boat. To get the best from Tortuguero, be on the water early or go out following a heavy rain – when all the wildlife comes out to sunbathe. It is also highly recommended to take tours by canoe or kayak – since these smaller, silent craft will allow you to get into the park’s less trafficked nooks and crannies.


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Sleeping

The Cuatro Esquinas ranger station has been closed to camping for the foreseeable future. It may be possible to pitch a tent at Jalova Station at the southern end of the park, but services are limited and the area is often submerged after heavy rains.


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Getting There & Away

For information on traveling to and from the area, Click here, and boxed text.


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TORTUGUERO VILLAGE

Located within the confines of Parque Nacional Tortuguero, accessible only by air or water, this bustling little village with strong Afro-Caribbean roots is best known for attracting hordes of sea turtles (the name Tortuguero means ‘turtle place’) – and the hordes of tourists who want to see them. While the peak turtle season is in July and August – the park and village have begun to attract travelers year-round. Even in October, when the turtles have pretty much returned to the sea, caravans of families and adventure travelers arrive to go on jungle hikes and to canoe the area’s lush canals.


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Information

A solid source of information is the town’s website, Tortuguero Village (www.tortuguerovillage.com), which lists local businesses and provides comprehensive directions on how to get into the area. It also has a helpful map.

There are no banks or ATMs in town and only a few businesses accept credit cards, so bring all the cash you’ll need. Internet connections can be iffy, especially during heavy rains.

Beyetty Internet (2709-8058; per hr ₡2000; 8:30am-9pm) You’ll find a few vintage machines and a friendly proprietor at this tiny spot on the canal side towards the north end of town.

Paraíso Tropical Store (2710-0323) A sprawling shop on the north side capped by a giant toucan statue on a pole sells pricey souvenirs and NatureAir tickets; it also cashes traveler’s checks.

Tortuguero Info Center (2709-8055; tortuguero_info@racsa.co.cr; per hr ₡2000; 8am-7pm) An independent information center that sells Sansa airline tickets and provides internet access. It is across from the Catholic church.


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Dangers & Annoyances

Competition for business is fierce in Tortuguero and relentless touts often sell tourists less-than-stellar services. Many so-called ‘guides’ are unlicensed, others downright unprofessional. Go with recommended guides and, if you’re unsure about where you’ve decided to stay, ask to see a room before putting any money down.


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Sights

About 200m north of Tortuguero village, the Caribbean Conservation Corporation (CCC; 2709-8091, in USA 800-678-7853; www.cccturtle.org; admission US$1; 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun) operates a research station that has a small visitor center and museum. Exhibits focus on all things turtle-related, including a video about the history of local turtle conservation.

CCC also runs a highly reputable environmental volunteer program, recommended by none other than National Geographic. During nesting season, interested folks can assist with turtle tagging and egg counts, and during bird-migration seasons, help with mist-netting and point-counts. Volunteer fees start at US$1450 per week and include bunk-house accommodations,

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