Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [412]
The Canadian Organization for Tropical Education and Rainforest Conservation (Coterc; 2709-8052, in Canada 905-831 8809; www.coterc.org; admission free) is a not-for-profit organization that operates the Estación Biológica Caño Palma, 7km north of Tortuguero village. This small biological research station houses a diminutive museum that contains, among other things, an impressive collection of skulls. From here, a network of trails wind through the surrounding rainforest. Coterc is surrounded on three sides by water, so you’ll have to hire a boat to get here.
The group also runs a volunteer program, in which visitors can assist with upkeep of the station and ongoing research projects, including sea-turtle and bird monitoring and plant-diversity inventories. Volunteer fees start at US$250 and include accommodations in dormitory buildings and three meals per day.
For other volunteer opportunities on the Caribbean coast, see boxed text.
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Activities
Besides the usual nature-focused activities, the town is cluttered with more souvenir shops than you can shake a coconut at. Shop around – prices and quality vary.
In addition, Hotel Aningha, across the river, has a spa where you can sign up for massages and exfoliating treatments.
BOATING & CANOEING
Signs all over Tortuguero advertise boat tours and boats for hire. This is obviously the best way to explore the surrounding waterways (Click here). For a list of recommended companies and guides, see below. Our advice: for optimum wildlife-spotting, forego the motors (the noise scares off wildlife) and opt for a guided tour by canoe. (You don’t have to row if you don’t want to.)
Numerous area businesses rent kayaks and canoes; inquire locally.
HIKING
A number of trails extend from the village into the national park (Click here) and around Coterc (following). Inquire at the agencies listed below for guided tours. Note: night hiking in the national park is not allowed.
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Tours
Guides have posted signs all over town advertising their services for canal tours and turtle walks. The Tortuguero Info Center (2709-8055; tortuguero_info@racsa.co.cr) can provide information. Going rates are about US$20 per person for a two-hour turtle tour, and US$15 for a two-hour hiking or boat excursion.
Recommended local guides:
Barbara Hartung (2709-8004; www.tinamontours.de) Offers hiking, canoe and turtle tours in German, English, French or Spanish. Also offers a unique tour about Tortuguero history, culture and medicinal plants.
Castor Hunter Thomas (8870-8634; castorhunter.blogspot.com;) A local who has worked as a guide for more than 20 years leads turtle tours (in season), guided hikes and wonderful canoe tours. Ask at Soda Doña María.
Chico (2709-8033) Chico’s hiking and canoe tours receive rave reviews from readers. Ask at Cabinas Miss Miriam.
Daryl Loth (8833-0827, 2709-8011; safari@racsa.co.cr) A personable Canadian-born naturalist (formerly of Coterc) offers excellent boat trips in a supersilent electric motorboat, as well as turtle tours (in season) and guided hikes.
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Sleeping
TORTUGUERO VILLAGE
There is a wide range of budget and midrange options here. The following places are listed in order from south (near the park entrance) to north. Lodgings on the northern half of town are quieter.
Tropical Lodge (2709-8110/8108, 8826-6246; d US$25; ) Behind the Tienda Bambú food shop, this colorful Caribbean setup has 10 somewhat dark, concrete rooms with private electric showers, four of which come with cable TV. The onsite bar is convenient, but inhibits beauty rest.
Cabinas Tortuguero (2709-8114; cabinas_tortuguero@yahoo.com; s/d without bathroom US$10/16, s/d/tr US$20/25/30) Inland from Tienda Bambú, you’ll find 11 brightly painted bungalows surrounding a tidy garden at this popular Tico-run budget spot. Rooms are clean and there are hammocks for lounging.
Cabinas Princesa Resort (2709-8131;