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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [413]

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princesaresort08@yahoo.com; r per person with/without breakfast US$20/15; ) There are three Princesa hotels scattered about town; this one, on the ocean, south of the cemetery, is best. A clapboard structure with 23 basic wood-and-concrete rooms faces an open garden with two pools (one for children). An onsite restaurant (open 7am to 9pm) serves Caribbean-Tico cuisine.

La Casona (2709-8092/8047; d/tr US$25/35, d with kitchenette US$35; ) Ten painted cement rooms with rustic touches surround a garden at this family-run spot on the north side of the soccer field. Three units have kitchenettes with hot plates. In addition, Jenny and her sons offer canoe rental, as well as canoe tours to a local farm in Caño Harold. It has a pleasant restaurant that serves Italian meals. Credit cards accepted.

Cabinas Miss Miriam (2709-8002, 8821-2037; s/d/tr US$20/25/30) Spread out over two buildings (one on the north end of the soccer field, the other south of it), this solid budget option has 16 clean tiled rooms, firm foam mattresses and electric showers. Upstairs rooms in the northern building have great ocean views, while units at the southern annex are bigger. The onsite restaurant, Miss Miriam’s, is Tortuguero’s top spot for Caribbean fare (Click here).

Casa Marbella (8833-0827, 2709-8011; www.casamarbella.tripod.com; d incl breakfast US$40-60; ) Owned by naturalist Daryl Loth, this charming B&B opposite the Catholic church manages to be wonderfully serene while also being in the middle of it all. Ten simple whitewashed rooms have good lighting and ceiling fans, as well as super clean bathrooms with electric showers. Hearty breakfasts (think fresh pancakes with tropical fruit) are served on an outdoor deck with views of the canal. Loth also organizes excellent area tours.

Cabinas Beyetty (2709-8207, 8332-3304; beyetty@hotmail.com; ) Eight basic-but-neat cement-box rooms make up the offerings at this small family-run spot. There is an internet cafe on the ground floor (available at an extra charge). It is located 75m south of the school across the street from the canal.

Hotel Miss Junie (2709-8029, in San José 2231-6803; www.iguanaverdetours.com; d US$40-60) At the northern end of the village, Miss Junie’s place is set on wide grounds, shaded by palm trees and strewn with hammocks. Seventeen spotless rooms in a nicely kept tropical plantation–style building come in various configurations (downstairs units are cheaper), but all are tastefully decorated with wood accents and bright bedspreads. Prices include a full breakfast by one of Tortuguero’s most celebrated cooks. Credit cards accepted.

NORTH OF THE VILLAGE

Most of the lodges outside of town cater primarily to high-end travelers on package deals, though most of these will accept walk-ins if they aren’t full. The following are listed from south to north; rates include all meals, unless otherwise stated. See Map, Click here, for exact locations.

Pachira Lodge (2709-8172/8222, in San José 2256-7080, in USA 800-644-7438; www.pachiralodge.com; 2-night package per adult/child US$289/100; ) A sprawling compound set on five hectares of land, this 88-room hotel is a popular family spot, with pristine, brightly painted clapboard bungalows and rooms that sleep up to four. (There are even cribs and children’s beds.) All have private terraces, mini-fridge and safe – and there’s a downright Disneyesque turtle-shaped pool, in addition to the region’s only zip line (US$30). Credit cards are accepted

Hotel Anhinga & Spa (2709-8190; 2-night package per adult/child US$289/100;) Immediately to the north of Pachira Lodge, and run by the same company, the 32-room Anhinga has a pleasant open-air spa (open to the public) with massage services and plunge pools. Accepts credit cards.

Evergreen Lodge (2709-8213; 2-night package per adult/child US$289/100;), Also run by the same company, the 55-room Evergreen Lodge is across the river. Credit cards are accepted.

Rana Roja (2709-8260; www.ranarojatortuguero.com; r per person per night US$55; ) This new Tico-run midrange spot offers one of the best

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