Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [414]
Mawamba Lodge (2709-8181; in San José 2293-8181; www.grupomawamba.com; 2-night package per adult/child US$330/144; ) With 58 rooms, pool tables, foosball, a free-form mosaic swimming pool, two butterfly gardens, as well as iguana and frog vivariums, this is one of the most tricked-out lodges in the area. Rooms are simple, wood-paneled affairs with firm beds, good fans and roomy bathrooms with hot water. All are fronted by a wide veranda equipped with hammocks and rocking chairs. Credit cards accepted.
La Baula Lodge (2231-1404; www.labaulalodge.com; 2-night package per person US$330; ) Under new ownership, this pleasant 45-room inn with beautiful gardens has recently received a needed makeover. Freshly painted cottages have simple, wood-floor rooms accented by bright linens and equipped with spacious, tidy bathrooms. An open-air canal-side rancho houses a bar and restaurant.
Laguna Lodge (2709-8082, in San José 2272-4943; www.lagunatortuguero.com; 2-night package per person from US$265; ) About 2km north of the village, this expansive lodge, popular with honeymooners, has 110 graceful rooms with high ceilings. It also has a restaurant, two bars (one on the river, one by the pool), a botanical garden with labeled plants, a massage room and – best of all – a reception area that looks like it’s straight out of the Dagobah System from the Empire Strike Back (let us know if you see Yoda). All guests are greeted with a ‘Coco Loco,’ the hotel’s tasty signature cocktail. Credit cards accepted.
Samoa Lodge (in San José 2258-6244/5790; www.samoalodge.com; 2-night package US$289; ) Set on 21 hectares on the far side of the Laguna Penitencia, this lovely Swiss-run spot has red clapboard buildings with 20 airy rooms that come with polished wood floors, brightly painted walls, bamboo beds, folk-art touches, coffee makers and minibars. The grounds are tidy, much of the vegetation is labeled and there is a swimming pool and hammock lounge. The owners can organize night tours on the lodge grounds. Canoes are available for paddlers.
All Rankins Lodge (2758-4160, 8815-5175; allrankinstours@hotmail.com; per person per night without meals US$25, per person per night incl meals, transport & tours US$140) Run by Tortuguero native Willis Rankin (who has a terrifically dry sense of humor), this simple spot by the airport is quite popular with students. It has 14 basic, wood cabinas with bathrooms and electric showers. An onsite restaurant dishes up fresh Caribbean cooking and there are lovely views of the river. Rankin can arrange all manner of excursions.
Tortuga Lodge & Gardens (2709-8034, in San José 2257-0766, 2222-0333; www.costaricaexpeditions.com; 2-night package per person from US$360; ) Tortuguero’s most elegant lodge, operated by Costa Rica Expeditions, is set amid 20 hectares of private gardens. Here you’ll find a serene environment, as well as 27 demure rooms that channel a 19th-century safari vibe. Units are accented with creamy linens, handmade textiles, vintage photos and broad terraces that invite lounging. The grounds come equipped with private trails, a free-form infinity-edge pool and a riverside bar-restaurant that is a wonderful spot for drinks. An all-around excellent choice. Credit cards accepted.
Turtle Beach Lodge (2248-0707, after hr 8837-6969; www.turtlebeachlodge.com; 2-night package per adult/child US$288/110; ) The northernmost lodge is flanked on either side by beach and river. It is surrounded by 70 hectares of tropical gardens and rainforest. Spacious, wood cabins have terra-cotta tile floors, hardwood furniture and huge screened windows to let in the breeze. You can explore the grounds on the network of jungle