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Riverboat Francesca Nature Tours (2226-0986; www.tortuguerocanals.com) A highly recommended company run by Modesto and Fran Watson, it also offers sportfishing (two-day packages from US$165).

AIR

The small airstrip is 4km north of Tortuguero village. Both NatureAir (2220-3054) and Sansa (2709-8055) have daily flights to and from San José (the one-way flight is less than 20 minutes). Charter flights land regularly here as well.

BOAT

Tortuguero is accessible by boat from Cariari or Moín. If you are traveling to Parismina, you should be able to get one of the boats to Moín to drop you off on the way. Regular taxi boats ply the waters around Tortuguero – so it’s easy enough to get around, even if you aren’t staying in town.

To/From Cariari

The most common and least expensive route to Tortuguero is a bus-boat combination trip through Cariari. (See boxed text, below for detailed directions.) There are three main companies that provide transportation along this route – all of whom also offer regular boat-bus service from Tortuguero to Cariari:

Clic Clic (8844-0463, 2709-8155) ₡2600; departs 6am, 11:30am and 3pm from the main public dock in town.

Coopetraca (2767-7137/7590) ₡2600; departs 6am, 11:30am and 3pm.

Viajes Bananeros (2709-8005) ₡5500; departs 6am, 11am and 2:30pm from the private dock on the far south end of town.

GETTING TO TORTUGUERO INDEPENDENTLY

If you want to get to Tortuguero independently, it can be easily done. There are a number of companies that offer bus-boat transport service from Cariari to Tortuguero several times a day. But with competition among rival transport agencies at an all-time high, some companies will say anything to get your fare – including telling you that they are the only transport option in town. Don’t believe everything you hear. Here’s what to do:

From San José

Take the 6:30am, 9am or 10:30am bus to Cariari (three hours) from San José’s Gran Terminal del Caribe. In Cariari, you will arrive at a bus station at the south end of town (known as the estación nueva). From here, you can walk or take a taxi 500m north to the estación vieja (old station), otherwise referred to as the Terminal Caribeño.

Public Transportation from Cariari

The cheapest option is by public transport on Clic Clic (2709-8155, 8844-0463) or Coopetraca (2767-7590), both of which charge ₡2600 per person for bus-boat service from the estación vieja all the way to Tortuguero. For these two options, the bus service will be the same, but the boat service will be different. Buses depart Cariari at 6am, 11:30am and 3pm.

For both of these services, buy only the bus ticket to La Pavona (₡1000). After a ride through banana plantations, you will arrive at the Río La Suerte, where a number of boat companies will be waiting at the dock. (Get ready to be solicited.) We recommend Clic Clic, which is generally prompt and well-run, with experienced boat captains – but you may want to choose based on availability or on the condition of the boats. From this point, you will pay the remainder of your fare (₡1600) to the boatman. Be sure to take small change.

Ticket vendors at the estación vieja in Cariari may try to sell you on a combined bus-boat ticket. Note that these are only for Coopetraca, since Clic Clic does not have a sales agent in town. We recommend paying your boat fare at the dock – since it allows you to see what you’re getting into – literally.

These companies will ferry you to the public boat dock in Tortuguero.

Private Transportation from Cariari

For a more expensive private service, there is Viajes Bananero (2709-8005), which has an office inside the San José bus terminal in Cariari. Buy your boat ticket here (per person US$10). From this same point, you will then take a bus (per person ₡600) to their proprietary boat dock. Bus departure times are at 11:30am and 2pm. Pay the driver directly; take small change. If you are traveling in a group, Bananero can arrange custom pick-ups. For private service, you will need to reserve ahead.